I had a new red oak floor "professionally" installed last month. After having minwax stain applied. As second coat of stain was applied to even out color. After drying 48 hours. Poly urethane 3 coats with abrading between coats was applied. Looked great wet, but after drying, areas showed non coverage and after a few weeks the finish started peeling off. The pro said he would remove the poly and the re- apply. I don't expect improvement am i wrong??

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He will have to re-sand and re-stain the floor. This time, only one coat of stain should be used and allowed to dry thoroughly. I am not a fan of Minwax stains. I'd suggest that contractor use flooring stains by BONA called Dri-Fast stains.

He already did that twice but applied 2 coats of stain. He is having a "expert" visit me today. He is going to check the moisture content of the wood. He says it has nothing to do with the staining. Any thoughts?

Too much stain + too short of drying time = finish peeling.
There are other causes, but this seems most likely in your case.

Double staining? Could be the culprit.
Wipe on, wipe off. The second step may have been left out, too.

My "professional" had an expert come to measure the water content of the wood. In the areas of non-bonding poly urethane it was 6%. The professional came today in order to abrade the floor and lightly sand the areas of non-stick, intending to place another coat of poly. Now the ploly urethane is coming of in sheets. He says he is returning to re sand the floor and apply only a single coat of stain and the poly_u. My concern is that he has already sanded the floor three times. Will this 4th sanding affect my floor long term?

Minwax said just remove the poly and wipe down the stained wood with clean cloths an mineral spirits in order to remove to remove the stain sitting on the surface.

Which way should I go????

The only way this floor can be salvaged is to re-sand it down to bare wood and start over. It's true some of the life of the floor has been removed from all this extra sanding that should not have been needed in the first place. But unless your flooring contractor is a complete idiot, you should still have enough wood there to last many years. The only other option? Tear it out and start over; this time, with someone who knows what they're doing.

Now that I have been convinced to sand down to bare wood, the original problem of un-even stain arises. Should I consider having him water pop the floor before staining?

This is almost too funny.

Take a poll of all the contractors that participate here, and ask..." What would you do, when your client starts telling you how to do the job they have hired you to do."

If your contractor cannot produce decent results, perhaps instead of telling him how to do his/her job, consider hiring a different contractor.

You are absolutely right. When things were going wrong initially and I saw the contractor was not wiping off the stain as directions suggested, I should have torched him . I didn't and now I am looking to others to help me remedy the problem.

Well the professional came back today and sanded down to bare wood and placed a coat of Minwax stain puritan pine on and wiped it off after only 2-3 minutes. It does not look even , should I dare let him place a second coat , if he will wipe it on and off as the first coat.

2-3 minutes isn't long enough. Didn't he read the instructions on the can?

The only time I have seen Oak get blotchy, is when they didn't sand it enough, or they sanded it too fine.

Definately hire a new "professional". Remember, you get what you pay for.

Also, it could be as simple as making sure the stain is stirred thoroughly.