Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Polyurethane Sheen
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:38 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 09, 2005 8:31 pm
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I have a question regarding the appropriate application of sheen level to the final desired sheen.

I read a while back (not on this forum) that if you want a satin finish as the final sheen, then use semi-gloss for the initial several coats and then proceed with the last several coats as the satin sheen. This will eliminate the dulling of the satin sheen. I used this procedure for my kitchen cabinets last year when I stripped all the kitchen down to the bare wood and stained and applied my finish. It turned out real nice. I do not know if this holds true for flooring type finishes.

First, is this accurate or can I just apply the final sheen of my interest.

I will be purchasing oak unfinished treads and risers for the stairs. I would like to put about 7-10 coats of polyurethane for added proctection and prevent premature wear.

Any input would be appreciated.

Mannner


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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject: finish
PostPosted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 10:41 am 
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Joined: Sun Jul 03, 2005 5:33 am
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Location: Prescott, Arizona
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Floors are a bit different. Due to "live load" stress factors and movement of the boards, that many coats could cause distressing. You might start getting cracks throughout the finish over a period of about a year.
The most coats that should be used is 4. If it shows ANY sign of wear in about 3-5 years, just clean, lightly abrade, vacuum, and recoat. That's called a "maintenance coat", a face-lift. This should be done WAY-y-y before ever wearing down to the stain/wood.

If you're using oil-based poly, then yes, you build with GLOSS (not sem-gloss). Then adjust your sheen with the final coat. Building with gloss will give you nice clarity.
However, if you're using water-based poly, this approach does not apply because water-based is absolutely clear. So even if you build with satin water-based, you'll get the same clarity if you were to build with gloss.

Hope this helps.
Charlie


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