So over the course of this nightmare of refinishing my own floors I've encountered many problems, so I have a few questions, I guess the most urgent is: I applied what I had hoped was the last coat of polyurethane to my floor last night, and because of some previous orange peel texture issues, I checked on it this morning and I'm really embarrassed to say (especially after all the research I've done this is probably the most common-sense thing) I walked on the floor before the 24 hour time frame. Didn't think it was a huge deal since they were dry, then after work I checked them out again and saw some handprints from when I was on my hands and knees inspecting certain areas, tried to wipe it with tack cloth, cheese cloth, and just a dry rag, and it disappears for a second then reappears...did I ruin my floors again or can I Clean this with something and if so, what?

Also, if most of the floor looks good, except a few random spots, is there a way to add a tiny more poly to those certain spots or would I have to abrade and recoat all of it again? Which brings me to my next question....

On a different forum I had posted a question about orange peel texture that occurred on part of my floors, and after giving up information on how I waited days between coats of poly, I was basically berated for attempting to refinish my own floors with little-to-no knowledge and was told to hire a professional to fix it. Which was definitely not advice I expected on a DIY website. So I grudgingly, aggressively abraded the floors with 120 grit and then 220 grit, vacuumed+tack clothed, polyed, waited 6 hours, and repeated. So now it's been almost a full day since the last coat so if I did want to add another coat of poly is it too late? I'm using Minwax fast drying oil based gloss polyurethane.

And my last question is about the orange peel texture because I still never received an answer as to why it happened. At that time I had 2 coats of gloss poly (had NO poly issues prior to this) and for the final coat I used semi gloss (did everything else the same) and about 25% of the floor ended up with the weird texture, and little pimple-like bumps...was extremely discouraging, and even after the sanding and redoing the poly, this time going back to gloss, I can still see them in certain light, though not nearly as much as I could with the semi gloss.

Sorry for the long post and TIA for any advice!

Sometimes after the floor has cured some minor defects can disappear as the finish shrinks a little as it gets harder. I have seen jean prints from Levi's disappear. Satin finish helps make surface defects less noticeable. If you still notice these after the floor has cured, you will need to apply another coat.
Putting another coat of finish on before the last coat has cured enough can cause wrinkles. If the floor powdered when screened it should have been ready.
Touching up a newly finished floor by taping off a section along the edge of the flooring rows and using the butt-joints to stagger a patch is the best way to do a touch-up. Feathering in without taping shows up in the reflection.
Rushing coats of finish without waiting overnight is risking trouble.
The best adhesion will be from abrasion between coats of finish.
The more coats of finish you apply the thicker the wear layer will be, but it takes longer for a thick coating to cure as the finish cures from the top down. The last coat doesn't get as hard as it can be until the first coat has fully cured under all the layers. Use extreme care if you have a thick layer until there has been enough time to fully cure. I recommend waiting a week between the second and third coats of poly.

That's what I was originally doing (waiting around a week) between coats of poly, then someone told me that that's too long and the layers won't be able to chemically bond together that way. Im happy, and hopeful, to hear that imperfections may go away once fully cured. I really didn't want to have to add more layers, although I am concerned that it seems kind of thin? Although like you said it will harden up fully after it cures so even if it's thin it should still be pretty durable? I was also told that Minwax poly is "lowest of the low, cheapest of the cheap" AFTER it was already too late. This has just been a never-ending nightmare that I just want to end so I'm going to wait a month (does that seem right for curing time?) before I make any rash decisions to add another coat. Thank you for your response!

Each company has their own formula for oil modified poly-urethane. The oil helps to spread it. The urethane is the hard part. I don't know how much oil is added to make the formula, but after curing there is not much difference in how long it lasts. Depending on how thick of a layer you have on your floor the curing will take some time. A month will be fully cured, I think.