First of all I am so happy I found this site with so many helpful members. Thanks for what you have here!!!

We are replacing the floor in our first floor. Half is carpet, half is solid oak. We ordered 3/4 x 3 1/4 solid hickory from Lowes (Bruce). I am doing this myself.

I want transitions to be like what the picture shows. Here's my plan:

Start with the carperted rooms, use the existing transition strip as reference and butt the new floor to that strip. Then remove the strip and replace with a new one, and butt the new floor on the other side. Expansion gap on the opposite sides of the transition strip.

Will this work? Can I glue the new transition strip? Want to avoid the face nails. All the rest of the floor will be nailed.

I don't like T-moldings so this would be my preferred method if it won't represent a problem.

Sorry I don't seem to know how to post the picture directly...

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t123 ... 4xqoj5.jpg

The existing hardwood flooring will be removed as well as the carpeting? Will the new flooring run in the same direction as the existing flooring? If yes to both then why a new transition strip....won't the new flooring cover the whole area?

Yes, all will be removed and new flooring will run in the same direction. I just think that installing by room will be easier. Seems to me that flowing from one room into the next one without a transition might require at some point installing the planks in two directions, vs. doing it room by room it's just start in one side and finish in the other? Of course I've never done this and it might be easier than I think...

In any case, any watch outs if I go with my plan?

OK. Gotta love internet

I learned abut splines to change the direction of the tongues

Does the spline need to be the same species? I've seen some that just say "hardwood splines" without mentioning the species.

Still not decided to which way to go, so I would like to know if my transition idea is an option.

Two schools of thought (1) flow from room to room or (2) flush headers or transitions between the rooms....the flush header boards are pieces of the same floor perpendicular to each room. It's a matter of personal taste....one argument for the flush headers is you can refinish one room and the header will be the stopping point. If you do the flush header/transition it will look best if the joints of the boards that abut the header are aligned. Plan the width of your transition so it won't look odd if you're in one of the rooms with the door closed. Not sure what you mean by installing in 2 directions....reversing tongue direction?

See comments on transition option in other reply. You may not be able to buy splines in the same species. Used hardwood splines for peace of mind. If you have the tools i.e. table saw and router you can make your own splines . Splines just get glued into a floor board's groove side to create a tongue. You would nail into this created tongue to secure the board to the subfloor.....just like any other tongue. You will do this if you need to install flooring in the reverse direction such as going into a closet. Also, depending upon what you decide with the flush trim/transition doorway piece you may need use a spline. Splines are real easy to work with. When you nail a spline take a couple of pieces of flooring and put their tongues over the spline on either side of your nailer so the spline is held parallel to the subfloor....this will ensure that the next piece of flooring will fit squarely onto the tongue.

Thanks Jimmiem. Very helpful. In the next couple of weeks I will be very busy removing the existing floor. But I'm sure I will be back for more

Thanks once again for all the input. Don't know what I'd be doing without this wonderful place full of people willing to help.

I removed carpets this weekend (UGH!!!). Preparing the subfloor.....had to scrape off tons of plaster, remove/replace screws, and so on. Overall the subfloor looks pretty well laid (Other than it's OSB...).

Floor should be delivered this week. I will be removing the old hardwood floor this weekend, then go install some tiles in the fireplace wall (Last minute addition to the project..), so the new floor will have plenty of time to acclimate.

What I love the most about a new project is that I get to buy all these new tools

One thing I got was a moisture meter, and all I get from the subfloor is 0.1 to 0.3%. Does this sound right?

Thanks again. I'll be creating an "Execution Stage" thread later on and hopefully learn how to post pictures here

The moisture meters are generally calibrated for Red Oak.....there should be a conversion table for other species with the instructions......don't know about the OSB.

Hmmmm....read the instructions.....never thought of that as an option


Will take a look at that tonight.

Instructions ain't what they used to be ......especially with products that are made overseas and their instructions written by somebody whose first language is NOT English.

Read the instructions; nothing there. But I learned that I'm reading it wrong. When I said 0.1 to 0.3 it was really 1 to 3%. I read the existing oak floor and it shows 4%. Is this considered normal? I've read that it should be more around 8%.

For the moisture content to get to 4% the relative humidity would have to be between 15% and 20%.

I pushed the meter harder and got 5%. I measured in another area where the carpet was recently cleaned and got 12% on the subfloor. At least it seems the meter is working; I just need to learn how to use it. Thanks again for your help!!!

Did you break a sweat pushing the moisture meter? The reason I ask is because I exercise in a room where I keep a humidistat and I see the humidity reading rise as I exercise and break a sweat.