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 Post subject: Peaking, Shaw BC engineered 5 inch plank, other probs, help!
PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:37 pm 
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Hi experts, we just had a new Shaw BC engineered 1/2 inch, 5 inch plank floor installed, glued down on slab, in Northern California. The slab is eighteen years old and had a few long and short cracks maybe 1/8 " wide at widest. Visually the slab appeared relatively flat, with some areas with paint overspray.

The problem is end peaking, this was visible as soon as the floor was laid, there is a large window that allows light to strike the length of the planks and it is very unsightly. the day after completion I found many small hollow spots and 5 or 6 larger ones ranging up to 2 sg. ft in size. The peaking seems to be getting a little worse three months after finish. Some of the hollow spots were injected and are better but some still exist. There were also a fair number of adhesive smears on the wood and when the installer tried to clean them there were areas that had the finish damaged. Needless to say we were disappointed!

After reviewing posts on this site it seems as though BC is not a very stable wood , even engineered, and it is apparent that the slab was not carefully measured for moisture, I don't believe any leveling was done, the wood was not acclimated very long and Shaw recommends placing spacers between each box to allow air flow, this was not done. they were stacked five high on the slab, 25 boxes in all.

The retailer has offered to redo the job but wants to put it off until May or June citing the fact that we are still in the rainy season (we have a good roof and good HVAC) I don't see why the wait. The floor was installed in November/December and it was raining! Oh yeah, the wrong trowel was used for the adhesive, too small for 5" plank.

Should we consider Santos Mahogany or Merbau(like the red) ? Does it matter whether it is rainy? Would a floated installation per Shaw instructions over 3 in 1 underlayment still have peaking? I know it is noisier. If the slab is high moisture content should sealer be applied ?, Shaw does not mention this. How is the adhesive (Shawbond 500 urethane) removed from the slab? How else should the slab be prepared
before the second install?

A lot of questions I know!!! but this is our first home and want to enjoy it and soon.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 19, 2006 5:54 pm 
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They need to focus their attention on sealing that concrete with a moisture blocker, before the moisture cure urethane is applied to it!!!

End peaking is a substrate moisture issue.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2006 12:07 am 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
If the flooring contractor you hired doesn't know the CORRECT answers to your questions, then you have the wrong contractor. But let me guess. You went to some all around flooring store that sells everything; carpet, vinyl, tile, wood, correct? And they subcontacted out the installation to one of the regular subs (who they hammer on price). So the sub cuts every and all corners to get it down asap to make any money. That means no moisture testing, no leveling/flatening, no scarifying/cleaning the concrete; just spread the glue and lay the floor. The store KNOWS they screwed it up and now is holding the installer's feet to the fire, making him eat the labor while they MAY provide new material. This is a very TYPICAL scenario, at least in N. CA. where I am from. IMO, I would DEMAND that they refund your entire purchase price and pay to remove the flawed floor. Then shop for a experienced, licensed (with stellar referals) HARDWOOD flooring installer who will install the floor properly. Lots of engineered products out there. As I've never worked with the brand you mentioned, I know the brand is a carpet mill and I'll bet the flooring is made in China. Personally, being an American, I prefer to use products made in our northern hemishere(Canada and the USA). I feel that overall, they are better made. So, have your attorney write a strong letter demanding a full refund plus demolition fees from the original "contractor". I usually give a break to small specialized installer/shops but I'm betting your contractor isn't one of them. It's a chain, I suspect, that sells wood and pays hack installers peanuts do "get it in". I apologize if I'm wrong but it sounds as if this is what happened.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2006 10:54 am 
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They may have used an acrylic adhesive containing moisture. These will subside over time, but in your case, your saying they are getting worse, which leads me to believe it may have been installed over a slab, pumping high vapors, using an acrylic adhesive. BC dosn't like moisture, which makes it worse.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 20, 2006 3:42 pm 
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Shaw and other carpet manufacturers are trying to get some market share back and have no name companies making the stuff and slapping their labels on it. The consistency sucks for lack of a better term. All of the flooring stores up in far nor cal are selling this stuff now. The problem is with the sales staff at most of these stores are paid commission and just want to get the spiffed flooring in your home so they make $$, not even having the foggest idea about moisture or acclimation. Even worse once you get to a big box store.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:39 am 
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Thanks for the replies, I think Floorguy and Gary hve pretty much hit it on the head. The adhesive was a urethane but spread with the wrong trowel, I have a picture of it. Gary almost described the scenario perfectly, I never saw a ten foot level or grinding machine or leveling material. Unfortunately I was at work when the work was done, I just took pictures of the stages of work and The installers knew how to put in the wood, just no prep!

You have made me suspicious of the Shaw wood, it is made in China. We liked the exotic color etc but the more I read about BC the more I think about looking at others. I too like Made in USA but those cool woods don't grow here but I guess USA companies can make engineered exotics too, any suggestions for USA made Santos? still like the 5 inch plank.

Man this is hard to get it right, especially for a rookie, thanks for all the input.

redrum


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 21, 2006 2:55 am 
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Jack Nicholson was pretty good in the "Shining", wasn't he, redrum. 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 12:52 am 
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Yes Gary, Jack Nicholson is one of the best and he was definitely "bad" in The Shining. I didn't think it would take long for someone to figure this one out. I don't feel like doing a "redrum' over this but it has sure messed with my enjoying my house !

I still haven't heard from the retailer but I sent a proposal by mail and will follow up. I am leaning more and more to bailing out and looking for a reputable hardwood expert in the area.

Would someone suggest a good engineered Santos or similar that I could either order on-line or get from a hardwood distributor in No Calif. It is not that big of a job, a little under 900 Sq. ft, but it completes the house. I am more and more spooked of BC, both for dimensional stability, and color change. remember this is a glue down on slab. Maybe I am too paranoid! Help!

This site is a real eye-opener and I sure wish I had found it before signing on the line

Thanks guys.

By the way, is there a similar site for tile setters?. I am wondering about a tile job that was done


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 2:15 am 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
How about this one?
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... ection.htm
Or this one?
http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... hogany.htm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 8:56 am 
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Here's the link you were asking about for Tile:
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php

John Bridge and crew are the best.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2006 8:58 am 
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You want some tile info?

Go hang out over at this place for a week, and you will get an education

http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php

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