Amish made hardwood

It is currently Mon Nov 25, 2024 1:33 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: 5/8 OSB...and 3/4" Maple Hardwood
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 9:05 pm 
Offline
New User

Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:55 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Brampton, Ontario
Hi Guys....newbie here, great forum wish I would have found it a long time ago.

Anyways I am in the middle of prepping my next hardwood flooring project and have a question. The plan is to lay 3/4" Maple in my bedrooms.

I noticed that the subfloor is 5/8" OSB which is not one of the recomended subfloorings as per NORMA (or whatever that group is which I read in one of the articles).

What should I be putting down as as an underlayment before the flooring goes down? Glue and screw 3/8 plywood or something else?

Thanks in advance guys!

Dave


Top
 Profile  
 

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 3:36 pm 
Offline
Most Valuable Contributor

Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
Posts: 4373
Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
the 3/8 to 1/2" plywood would be just fine.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:26 pm 
Offline
New User

Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:55 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Brampton, Ontario
Forgive me if this is a bit of a stupid question, but the plywood, does it have to be a certain type and should it be T&G?

Best Regards,
DK


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 4:57 pm 
Offline
Worthy Contributor

Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 3:57 pm
Posts: 198
Location: New Jersey
Don't have to be Tongue & groove . Actually you should leave a 1/8" gap at the joints for expansion . I like to bring it in the house and stand it up around the walls a few days before i install it . I also staple from the middle of the sheet out to the edges . There are some overly qualified Pros on here , So don't be afraid to ask questions .


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:00 am 
Offline
New User

Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:55 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Brampton, Ontario
Thanks guys

Nick...why do you stand it up around the walls for a few days to install it...I thought laying it flat would be better. Just curious.

Thanks again!
Dave


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:13 am 
Offline
Worthy Contributor

Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 3:57 pm
Posts: 198
Location: New Jersey
Lets it acclimate on both sides . faster .
Do you know about floor flatness guidelines . Moisture readings , Nailing pattern for the size of wood you are installing ?
What type of flooring is in the hallway to the bedrooms ?


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 12:44 pm 
Offline
New User

Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:55 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Brampton, Ontario
Hi Nick re your questions

RE Floor Flatness- its fairly flat, there arnt any dips that I could find and any high spots in the original subfloor (OSB) I sanded them down flat

Moisture readings-> I figured it would/should be the same sort of acclimatization instructions as the hardwood as listed on the package before install. (dont have it yet but figured I would follow the same guidelines for the plywood going down).

Nailing/screwing pattern--> I was going to use the guidelines I found online here think it was every 4-6" on the perimeter and 6-8" apart infield...I will 2x check that before I actually get going.

The flooring going in is 3/4" Solid hard maple all upstairs in the hallway and bedrooms (was originally carpet over OSB subfloor).

Thanks,
DK


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 3:37 pm 
Offline
Worthy Contributor

Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 3:57 pm
Posts: 198
Location: New Jersey
I use a 6' level i picked up at harbor Freight for $20.00 . Does the same job for flatness as the $100.00 one . Flatness has to be no more the 1/8 " in 6' , or 3/16 " in 10' .
MC of sub floor has to be within 4 % of wood strip flooring less then 3 " wide ,
and 2 % for flooring 3 " or wider .
If you give us the RH and temp of the room we can tell you what the MC of the wood should be at .
You can pick up a electronic hygrometer/thermometer at the rat shack for $20.00 . set it on the floor for 1/2 hr . post the readings .
How wide is the wood flooring ? Nailing patterns vary .


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:47 pm 
Offline
New User

Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2009 8:55 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Brampton, Ontario
These are all the things I would have never thought of which would probably make a good difference in the long run.

The flooring will be 3 and 1/4" wide.

Thanks,
DK


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:31 am 
Offline
Worthy Contributor

Joined: Thu Jul 24, 2008 3:57 pm
Posts: 198
Location: New Jersey
You can use a 1 1/2 " to 2 " staple . I prefer Two .
1 to 3 " on the ends , and 6 to 8 " down the board .


Top
 Profile  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 10 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group

phpBB SEO