Trying to re-install 35 year old oak strip flooring (3/4 x 2 1/4 inch) that was removed from a home 16 months ago. Markings are the same on the underside of all of the flooring. Flooring was stored in my garage and moved into conditioned space one month prior to installation. Moisture checks need to be done as soon as I can get my hands on a meter. However, I tried to put several boards together by hand and boards would not mate to one another along the long side of the boards. There is a 1/16 inch gap left after hand fitting. Also tried several boards with trying to close gap with hammer and blocker board with poor results (gap reduced by 50%). It appears that the tongue has room to seat but may be swelled after removal and seperation of the boards from previous home. The wider tongue or narrower groove is not allowing the boards to meet or too much friction is not allowing movement. Currently at a stand still on my first attempt at installation. Looking for any suggestions to allow installation of this great looking hardwood from the 70s.

I'd start installing it and see what happens. The force of a mal(mallet) and nailer/stapler may close up the gaps you're concerned about. Even some of the better hardwoods don't fit tight before fastening--just takes more persuasion.

Ken,
Thanks for the suggestion. So far, I have tried three boards with very little success of closing the gap. I clamped the first two strips in the doorway and was able to eliminate the gap, upon removal of the clamps the gap again opened to about 50% of the block hammer position. I then tried four 2 inch staples with large swings on the peunmatic floor stapler across the 30 inch doorway. I couldn't close up the gap from the post clamped position. Resulting gap looks unsat. Note:I removed the clamps prior to stapling since clamping will be limited to the boards across the doorway. I am using a Bostitch Flooring Stapler (MIIIFS) with the foot kit that strikes the tongue rather than the edge above the tongue. I am not sure this is impacting the extra effort to close up the gap but seems to work better for the beginner that I am.
Bottom line, elimination of the gap could only be done with wood clamps after I block hammered the board into place. Upon release of the clamps, the strip returned to 50% of the block hammered gap position. I then tried to eliminate the pressure relief (50%) gap with the stapler but had little progress in arriving at a flush position (no gap). I am trying to be more selective on the next row with the best T&Gs but all strips seem to have at least some minor defects. So far, I have rejected 20 boards to 1 keeper. This seems too restrictive and wasteful. Still hoping for a better approach than mine. I am pretty sure the resulting gaps will still stand out after sanding.

Run the flooring through a router table or clip a tiny portion off the tongue through a table saw? Shaving off a portion of what's holding it up may help, but looks time consuming. Difficult to really say without being there.

It is possible the t&g's have swelled due to moisture absorption. You need to get a moisture meter before proceeding. Ideal mc would be around 7% unless you live in one of the Gulf states, then it would be higher. If mc checks out fine, then Ken's suggestion makes sense. If you have the time to re-mill all that flooring, use a router table or shaper to slightly enlarge grooves. Not too much, fit should be snug.

Gary,
Thanks for your thoughts and insight. Checked the wood and plywood flooring. Both read 10%. I brought in a couple of strips from another friends home and his read 10% also. I found a couple of boards around 12% and a few reading 8%. I live on the water on the southern tip of Maryland and I found that 10% is about the average according to other woodworkers in this area.
I will assume that the wood is stable enough to install. I am going to try some beeswax on the tongue to see if I can close the gaps. I have measured the tongues and groves (with a micronometer) on this old material and compared it to two pieces from flooring installed in another home. The difference between the old wood and the friends samples are almost identical. I am under the impression that the T&G should fit but may need allot of muscle. I will try more pieces with allot of banging and wax to see if this helps.
I don't think this should be this hard but I must be missing some technique or the boards are unacceptable without milling again. Will write back with an update either way.
Thanks again.

Steve;
You said the mkii fs has a plate that hits the tongue, (mine did not) this could be why you are not getting the boards slammed together. If you can borrow or rent a model 45 powernailer or one of the multistrike manual nailers give them a try. I have never not been able to get the boards tight with manual nailing if I can get them wedged or clamped together, that 5 pound hammer will scare them tight. The air stapler will not hold up for very long if you hit it hard.
Good Luck
Jim (bootjack from NC)

Jim,
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you and really appreciate your thoughts. You are correct about the MKII FS. The factory plate hits the edge above the tongue. I have installed an additional plate that distributes the hit on the edge of the tongue. Which I agree that my configuration reduces the amount of force that pushes the boards together prior to the staple being inserted. In addition, I have been on hold doing another project at the house and finally this long weekend I will attack the floor again. This had dragged out too long and I need to resolve or trash the wood. I will try several attempts this Friday. One will be better selection of boards. Two, I will try some wax on the tongue. Three, I have found someone with a manual nailer and may consider this option. Bottom line, I also found a method to recut the T&G but consider this an extreme investment of time/labor and might resort to new prefinish material instead. I really appreciate your thoughts and the advice about the durability of my stapler if I did continue to use excessive force. I am out of time and hope to move forward before the end of the Thanksgiving weekend. Thanks again, Steve

One could install the flooring, leaving the gaps, then fill the gaps if not too wide. No floor is perfect and gapping is characteristic of wood. Wood shrinks and swells with the seasons so you'll have gapped floors during the winter months even with wood that fit perfectly.
Ray

Methinks that maybe this floor was installed without the correct acclimation in the first place, or had extremes in crawl space moisture and suffered from compression set. If so, getting it to fit tight will require the milling the others mentioned. I've done a few salvage wood jobs., and this has been my conclusion.