Hi, I am new to the board and new to installing wood flooring. I have installed a lot of tile but decided to go with the wood flooring on this house. I am planning on installing about 1000 sq. ft. of Virginia Vintage Oak 1/2" X 5" engineered flooring from Anderson in the foyer, great room, kitchen and master bedroom. These are all on the first floor over a basement with 3/4" OSB subfloor. I am planning on using a hammer actuated pneumatic stapler. I'm not sure which would be best, Bostitch MIIIFS or Powernailer 200. I'm not sure which size staples either (1-1/2"?) I plan to use 15# felt (tar paper) under the wood. Any suggestions on this plan or opinions on which tool to use? Anyone here install this brand of engineered flooring before? I live in the St/ Louis area and will be installing this in January. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks! Dave

I have a feeling both tools you've mentioned may to do the job properly because the fasteners are too large? Hopefully the other guys can chime in because I've only handled only one engineered staple down installation in my life and that was a 3/8" engineered floor using..it's been so long I forget

I'm suprised Anderson doesn't have tool recommendations. But they do offer other tips at the link below.


http://www.andersonfloors.com/pdf/AHWF_ ... 100705.pdf

Thanks for the link. I have seen those instructions along with another set of installation instructions from Anderson and they don't mention the type of tool. I'm assuming that 1.5" long staples would be the correct length but the gauge and width are a concern as well as the type of tool. Hopefully someone will chime in. The reason that I'm going with the engineered instead of the solid is because it will be in a kitchen/dining room and also since this is my first install it might not be as critical as solid. Solid seems to have more problems with movement due to humidity and/or improper installation (from what I've read). Thanks, Dave

Use the Bostitch floor runner stapler for engineered. It works a lot better than trying to get a stand up to not bust up the flooring.

Thanks, I looked at the specs of this stapler. It looks like the longest staple that it can use is 1.25". It also looks like it is just trigger actuated so there would be anything "forcing" the planks together like there would with the MIIIFS. Do you think any of this would be a problem? Thanks again, Dave

It has never been a concern yet, with my trigger actuated Senco SKS, floor runner.

You have to get the floor tight before pulling the trigger. It will pull together a small gap, but not as big of a gap as the hammer actuated nailers.

You can use the m111 with the proper shoe. Just be carefull not to get too carried away with it that mallet. The edges of prefinished floors can be real brittle so dont beat the daylights out of it trying to pull it tight, if a board doesnt seem to fit pull it out and try a new one much better than going back after two rows and having to skill saw it out because you dimpled the edge.

Dave,
Engineered, though a natural product is not like solid wood. Its milling and deformations are quite different. Given this engineered wood flexes far more easily and is less susceptible to bowing, It will bow up and down (banana) but rarely side to side (boomerang). In the event that you do find one bowed from side to side. It is still relatively easy to push into place by hand and shoot with the stapler. If you find many side to side bowed boards in an engineered product do not buy that product, it will be junk.

Long story short you should not have to use the force of the stapler to snug boards of engineered wood. If you do you have a bad product.

Thanks for all the help folks! As for the material, I am planning on buying it from this site. Does everyone agree that the Bostitch floor runner would be the tool that I need, along with 1.25" staples? Also, where is a good place to buy the tool? Thanks again, Dave

Dave the Floor runner does not shoot a 1.25" staple it shoots a 1" narrow crown staple.

OK, I guess that would be long enough for 1/2" thick engineered? I saw 2 different models of Bostitch floor runners. One was an LHF97125-2 and the other was an LHF-3297-2. Maybe one replaced the other or something? Thanks, Dave

I would suggest you rethink the tar paper for two reasons -

1- 15# felt is not a vapor barrier and would prob void the warranty on the floor. The Virginia vintage is a nice floor and I would suggest getting the manufacturer recommended underlayment. Any other thoughts from the pros on what they use?

2- I decided to run radiant heat under my whole first floor, yes even under my 3/4 hardwood. It will be a low temp and the floor will be fine. Anyway think about what happens if you heat up tar paper... Mmm smells nice... Though most people will never add radiant, I think it is still a consideration.

Thanks for the advice. Almost everything that I've read calls for 15# felt, including the instructions on Anderson's website. I am installing ground-loop Geothermal heating and cooling so there won't be any radiant heat. Thanks again, Dave

Everybody has an opinion, here's mine. A 1/4 inch crown, 18 gauge staple is what you should use. A senco SLS 20 is good for up to 3/8"; call them and see if they reccomend that gun for 1/2" flooring. I don't think so.
I don't use the Spotnail staples, I prefer the Senco staple, 1 1/4" long. I have put down thousands of feet of this product with that gun/staple combo with zero problems. There is a phone number for Anderson enclosed with the wood flooring. Call it, and see what they say. Most makers of engineered prefer you to use a trigger actuated fastener.

I ran across a good deal on a Bostitch LHF97125-2 last night and bought it. I guess it takes the 3/6" crown X 1" staple. It says that it is for 3/8"-1/2". Anyone used it? Thanks, Dave