Hey guys,

I'm new to this forum but need help. Basically we had contractors come in and install brazillian cherry hardwoods and overall we are happy with them. The problem area is in the kitchen under the counters and also in the starter boards. They face nailed (almost dead in the center) every 6 inches and "tried" to fill them with puddy. The puddy is an eyesore even from across the room. They state this is industry standard. We told them we didnt want to see the nails like that and so they ripped up those pieces (which were the starter pieces for the entire job) and tried to glue them. Well she glued them and the next day there were significant gaps between the two rows and you could feel some boards flex when stepping on them. So now we are at a stand still. She still claims she did it right the first time and attempted the glue them down and now doesnt know what to do. I told her there has to be ways to install w/out having to top nail. I also told her if she top nails, they should be close enough so that the baseboards will cover them. She states it will split the wood if she does that.

So I am stuck guys. I am not an expert by anymeans but she keeps holding to the "I did it right" the first time mentality. So I need your help on fixing these two rows of planks that need to be reinstalled and also tips on how to properly top nail and cover up w/out them being so noticable.

I owe you guys more than you know!

Generally, there are several ways to approach the problem of having to face nail starter and finish rows. Some are better than others. All I can endorse is the process we use:
Use urethane adhesive in a zigzag pattern along the bottom of these boards, holding them tightly in place with BLUE masking tape until the adhesive sets up; or suppliment the glue with 23 gauge headless pins, which are nearly invisible, but still require filling to protect the raw wood exposed by the nail. Note that firing a 23 gauge pin into such a tough wood could be a challenge.
In the case of Brazilian Cherry, the filler must start out darker than the floor, since this wood will darken considerably upon exposure to UV light.

Thank you very much for the response. I guess we are going to opt to try and re-glue the start slats again and see if they can figure out how to keep them close together while they dry. But now the problem is the contractor is stating that I "changed the hardwood nailing requirement" and wants me to put in writing "specific instructions to re-install the removed wood and wood not presently fastened." You have got to be kidding me? I refuse to answer that since I am not an installer and that is why I am paying them. I simply want our floors installed where there are no eye sores in areas. From researching and asking around, I know it is possible. It seems I am getting punished for them not knowing any other way than excessively (IMO) top nailing the boards and filling them with mismatching filler. It is just frustrating.

So because of all this, I will go around to several stores this weekend to see if I can figure out a way to conceal the top nails if/when necessary in these certain areas that need repair and due to my disappointment initially from them. Sorry to complain but I just feel like I am stuck between a rock and a hard place.

And everyone wonders why I use so much blue tape to hold a gluedown tightly together, until the glue sets up(the next day)

Right you are Austin, we use tons of that tape. And if for any reason we cannot finish an install in one day, my guys always screw down a "false wall" were they stop for the day. Not a great idea, but prevents Gomer from displacing the floor right after we leave.

Strap it and weight it. Like I do on glue downs and floaters.







Man, posting pics here is difficult to say the least.

So now our contractor wrote us an email stating it is our fault for insisting on the areas of the floor to be redone. We never told them what to do, we simply brought to their attention our dissatisfaction with the way their looked from a standing position. They chose to rip up the perimeter and attempt to glue them. They stated "As a result of tearing out and reinstalling according to your requirements we glued the first rows instead of top nailing it, and the result was the floor broads are now loose and moving. The glue will not hold, as I had told you in our conversations prior without the top nailing." What I am hearing from researching around is that it is absolutely possible to rip up the perimeter pieces and glue them so there are no significant gaps and squeaking.

In addition, they state they are "willing to come back and spend 1 day to try and redo the floor according to installation standards which requires top nailing. We will fill the holes with the standard filler, unless you found something that will match better." Am I missing something here? Are my requests that I should not see top nails from across the room unreasonable? Is it not their responsibility to find a filler combination that is visually acceptable and not blatantly obvious from across the room?

On top of all of this, they are also requesting that they want 1/2 of the 25% (due upon completion as stated in the contract) when the arrive and before any additional work is done and I refuse. They also want us to sign off on these demands before they will show up again.

I am at a loss! What do we do now? I will not agree to what they are requesting and I will not change the payment terms. We simply want the job completed and it to be not only structurally sound, but also visually acceptable. Is the only option to hire an attorney?

The people on the other end are boneheaded. Guidelines are just that... guidelines, and they were established well before factory finished flooring came on the scene. It is established common practice nowadays to eliminate or conceal face nailing. If face nails are used they should be back where the base and base shoe will cover them. There are many methods to glue the starter rows and toekick boards down and keep them in place. Mainly I use adjustable spacers with the thumb knobs http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl= ... tgek66WJDQ

Also use straps, wedges, 18ga. brads.... whatever works the best.