Hi all from Edmonton, Canada,

This is my first post but I have been going over a lot of the previous posts and learning a ton....Thanks so much for this forum and all the valued members who contribute in the event of helping others out like myself.

So I am installing 3/4" pre-finished maple HW throughout the main floor of my house. I purchased it at the big orange store. My subfloor is plywood and I will be topping this off with some 3/8 underlayment as I already have that down from previous lino. It would be easier to just add more underlayment to the rest of the floor rather than removing the original unerlayment.

I have some questions in regards to many things related to installing this flooring. Mostly, I would like some confirmation to make sure I am starting off correctly rather than waiting for a problem first (you know preventative planning). I plan on buying some tools (the good thing about being a DIYer is more tools!) and my first purchase will be a Bostitch MIIIFS.

1- I will need to buy a finish nailer and brad nailer. I would like to stay in the Bostitch family, what should I get?

2- I believe that a 15 gauge finish nailer is what's needed for the first and last rows when face and blind nailing is needed...is this correct?

3- Then I will need a 18 guage brad nailer for the base boards...does this also sound correct?

4- What length of flooring staples should I use... I think that 1-1/2 inch is the common length...does this sound right?

5- When I do my base boards, should I place some construction paper down as a buffer (which will be removed once the base board is nailed to the wall) to allow for a small gap in between the HW and base board?

6- I will be using some red rosin paper as a buffer inbetween the subfloor and the HW flooring....Is this an OK product to use?

7- Is there a good floor jack (one to make the flooring boards tighter before stapling that you can recommend?

8- I am also looking to buy a portable table saw, do you have any recommendations as to which one I should look at? I am looking for durability and quality of cuts.

9- Almost forgot about the stairs.. Now I plan on using maple stair nosing then finishing the rest of the tread, rise and stringer sides with actual hardwood flooring. I will then cap off the top of the stringers with a maple capping. But in regards to the stair nosing, what is the best method of installing?

9a- I need to cut off the existing nosing that is on the stairs right now...is this correct?

9b- Should the riser boards sit ontop of the tread boards or vise versa?

9c- Should I just face nail the boards to the stairs, or use an adhesive such as PL400 or both?

9d- How about the maple stair nosing? Do I face nail on the corners or all across the edge of it, PL400 it or both?

9e- I heard of some people nailing the underside of the nose into the stair...Is this correct?

I am really sorry for all the questions, but hey maybe this could be used as the ultimate sticky for Newbies once we are done!

If there are any other tricks, tips or information you can pass onto me, that would be wonderful!

Thanks so much for all your time and suggestions!

Duane

Please forgive my laziness, but I won't do a complete point by point response.

Do not use an 18ga nailer to hang baseboard. 1-1/2 in staples are fine. I see no particular need to shim the baseboard off of the floor with paper.

Thanks for the comments Chuck, no you are not taking the lazy approach, I just asked a lot of questions....to many to be answered by one person.

I was thinking one would want a tiny gap in
between the base board and flooring so if the floor expands or contracts nothing will be rubbing?

Any and All comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for your comments!

Duane

There are certain tools a homeowner can buy and resell on eBay at a premium price. The Powernail Powerjack is one of them. I recommend it for pulling in boards since you have a plywood subfloor. You can use it anywhere on the floor.

I'd be using 2" staples..... Cut off the existing nosing.... I put the riser in first and back rip the stair tread about 5 degrees..... use roofing felt or Aquabar under the wood....... Hitachi makes a nice portable table saw on a fold up rolling stand with length and width extensions for under 200 bucks, very light weight. I own one.

What exactly do you mean by back-ripping the stair tread 5*? What does this do? Thanks!

Chuck,

This is not the first time you have stated to NOT use a brad nailer to hang base board. If you don't mind, what do YOU use? and why won't a Brad nailer work? I have been using it in my home with great results.

Thanks,

KRV

It does depend on the size and thickness of those baseboards. Myself, I wouldn't be installing tall, 9/16" or thicker wood baseboards with skinny, little 18 gauge brads. That type of base will want to move and bigger nails will restrain it better. In the days before nail guns, most all interior trim was hand nailed using #6 or #8 finish nails. A 15 gauge pneumatic finish nail is similar to a #6 finish nail, although the head and wire thickness is still slightly smaller. An 18 gauge brad nail is way to dinky, IMO, to install most interior trim, except baseshoe and very small moldings, such as cove and door stops.

Shiming the baseboard off the floor with paper is very handy when you want to paint the baseboard. You don't struggle; you just slip a piece of paper under the baseboard. I would also do the same thing with the molding around the doors for the same reason.

You use an 18 ga. nailer when you go through the thin edge of casing, the trim around doors and windows. A 15 ga. nailer will often split the thin edge of case. In fact a 15 ga. will sometimes split the thick edge of casing, especially MDF, if you nail too close to the end or the edge. For face nailing a floor a 15 ga. is the best choice and a good choice for base.

It helps the installer to net fit the back of the stair tread tight against the riser face. No gaps.

I think that's a great idea. I saw it done a few years back with a very meticulate builder. Roll out some paper, place the base on top of the floor, install the base snug, but not too tight to the floor so it will come out easily when the painting is done.