I have just learned of this forum and it has been very helpful. We are remodeling our entire home and doing it ourselves. Hardwood flooring is something I have not done but will be soon. Can anyone suggest a few books on installing flooring and finishing it? We are doing the kitchen / dining area aprox. 400 sq' in 3.5" tiger wood. Is there different species of tiger wood? I have heard mentioned Brazilian and Peruvian. Is there a difference and what is it? Being the kitchen and dining area with the only way upstairs the area will be fairly high traffic. We like a rich deep finish with a satin sheen. Is that best achieved with the use of both a sanding sealer and poly top coats? I am looking for recommendatins on the type of finish to apply. Other questions are should I use nails or staples? It has also been suggested to me to glue the flooring as well? I have a 90 degree transition just through a door jamb to a landing from the stairs that enter the kitchen area. Any suggestions? The other area of ? is from the great room to the kitchen area is a transition from ceramic to HW. Due to changes and oversites in the project there will be about a 1/2" difference in floor heights with the tile being higher.javascript:emoticon(':oops:')

Our other project is to install 3.5" Australian cypress on the cathedral ceilings in the dining area and great room/trophy room. This is aprox. 600 sq'. I am planning to presand and finish the wood with either tongue oil or danish oil. Again a deep satin finish is what is perfered. My biggest concern for this project is I am planning to attach the flooring directly to the ceiling I joists. I have had mixed reviews from the few people I have spoke with about this. I have seen it done with both knotty pine and red oak and it worked great. My concern is when boards don't end on a ceiling joist. javascript:emoticon(':?:')

I know my list of quesations are long. Any suggestions from experienced people will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you in advance.
George K

Goncalo Alves is the botanical name for Tigerwood, some mfgs, are also using the term Brazilian Koa. I see no reason to glue and nail for a 3 1/2" width unless you just want to.

I would use a nosed landing tread (stair nose) to transition at the steps.
I have some photos showing ways to transition to different surfaces on my website. Picture #52 shows a Tigerwood nosed landing tread. http://custom-surfaces.com/12.html

I bought the "Flooring 1-2-3" book at home depot. It's not bad.

First off, save yourself heart ache by buying pre-finished flooring for your DIY project. Sanding and finishing is a science best left for the pros.

As far as tools, just make sure you have ALL the right ones before you begin....Too much time is spent screwing around if you don't have the right tools. 400 square feet on your first flooring project will take you at least 2 weekends so renting all this stuff may cost you more than if you were to just buy them.

Here are the power tools you will need:
Compressor (most will work fine, Costco is a good place to look)

Flooring nailer/stapler (staples actually hold better according to many here)
I have laid over 1000 square feet with this http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=93197 and it works awesome!

Table saw & a Miter saw. You will need a Table saw to rip long peices of wood. There are other ways but make it easy on yourself. Again, Costco has a unit for $79.00.

15 guage finish nailer for the first and last rows.

18 guage brad nailer to nail the base boards on to the wall.

(Schucks Auto Supply has a 3 pack (15 guage/18 guage/Fine Wire) that I use with great success $129.00 for all 3.

Read as much information on this site as it will be VERY helpful.

Good Luck!!!

Guys thanks for the informaton and insight.

Jerry, regarding your web site and pics the pics of the tiger wood are fantastic. You do fantastic work. I wasn't thinking of bordering the room and installing it on an angle but I love the look. Having a bit of a hard time with the wife! How much additional material will I have to calculate for scrap over just a strait run? What she dosan't like is the border. How difficult is the bordering process? Have you ever installed of the medalions?

KRV, Thanks for the insite on tools I have all of them but the flooring nailer. does anyone else have experience with the harbor freight over the stanly bostich?

Dave, I have that one thanks

Can anyone respond from experience regarding the use of HW flooring on the ceiling directly on the I joists? My concern is the ends shifting from any movement. I have concidered gluing a piece of plywood to span the 2 boards. javascript:emoticon(':?:')javascript:emoticon(':idea:')

I'm married too George so i think you can pretty much forget the border idea if your wife don't like it . I don't particularly like that border layout either but the lady wanted it. I would have done it different in my own house.

Straight runs I figure a 5-7 % waste factor. Diagonals I would bump that to 12-15 %. Bordered layouts I would estimate maybe a 20 % factor. That is because I don't like to use alot of shorts in a border row. If shorts don't bother you you can make do with a 15% waste.

It is more time consuming but thats about it. Just alot more labor, its not rocket science. One can install a border as you go without cutting anything on the floor. To me running diagonals are more difficult than a straight lay. You will find out why that is when you hit your first door jambs to run under.You have to stop 2 rows short and get the cut board slid under first or else it won't go in.

I agree that you would be better off with a prefinished wood. I have yet install a medallion. One day somebody will want one

I have a couple of thoughts here. First, it is most likely code that 5/8" dry wall (sheetrock) is to be installed on the ceiling of your home, and all homes in the country. This is for fire. But I like the idea of installing plywood over the sheetrock. I'd suggest 1/2" minimum. Then you can safely install any wood you wish on the ceiling buy nailing and/or gluing. And you do not need to concern yourself with where the end butts fall.

Have any of you guys use the finish bona traffic. I have a some experience with latex poly and like it. This is a very high traffic area and being a kitchen I want the best finish possible. Becuse of it being a kitchen/ dining area and very high traffic, I did not consider a prefinished floor. I wanted a sanded and sealed floor. Any recommendations based on experience are greatly appricated.

Jerry your web site is great. My wife loves the floor on an angle. I just ordered a few extra bundles. The wood comes tommorow. We are considering a medallion but just don't know. It may just look to fancy for a tiger wood floor.

Thanks

George K

Yes, many times. It says it is for professional use only but most distributors will sell it to anyone who comes in. Expensive but as durable as there is, IMO. If you do decide to sand your own floors, don't use a drum sander. You will probably ruin them and have to hire a pro to fix them. Rent one of those ocsillating dics sanders. Somewhat slower but from the reports posted here, they do a fine job.