Good morning! First post. Getting ready to do my first hardwood project. I am adding 2 1/4 unfinished white oak to a hallway and kitchen. I am matching it to existing 2 1/4 white oak through out the rest of the house.

The rooms with the existing hardwoods are running length wise perpendicular to the joists. I am adding the hardwoods to the hallway. (same material) I would like to add a transition peice of two boards going across the threshold connecting the two spaces.

So basically to visualize better, the hallway and the living room and dining room will be all going in the same direction, since the dining room and living room are already installed, along those two thresholds, I plan to put two boards perpendicular to the rest.

My question is. Will I run into problems not leaving that expansion gap on that side?
The other end of the hallway will have the gap, but where it joins with the transition piece and into the existing room will not have a gap on that side. I also plan to cut the jamb so the transition perpendicular pieces will have the gaps

What is the correct way to do this? I see it done often.
thanks
Greg

Transition running from jamb to jamb? Flush to flooring,i.e. flush threshold? Flooring on both sides of the transition will be perpendicular to flush threshold? Undercut jambs and slide flush threshold under the jambs. Try to align the boards on each side of the threshold so that the joints line up...it will look better. Don't need expansion gap here. Floor will be happier if humidity is controlled. You could also weave the new floor with the old floor and forego the perpendicular threshold. Two schools of thought on these 2 options.

Thanks. Yes the transition strip will be jam to jam and flush to both sides of the floor. Both sides will be perpendicular to the transition strip. I thought about weaving it but wife and I both think it would look good going perpendicular. Definitely personal perference.

I plan to flush cut the jamb and leave the gaps underneath.

Many concern was about the expansion gap at the transition, glad you don't need one.

Also plan to use a product called svs silicone vaper barrier. Anyone have any pro's/cons with it? I don't want to use felt paper so its either the allgobe product or red rosin. hardwood supply store was pushing the white silcone paper big time.
Also planned to use 2" cleat nails since that is what is in the existing floor and seemed to be holding well.
thanks,
Greg
thanks.

I used Aquabar 'B' vapor retarder ($22 for a 500 sq ft roll at Home Depot). It has a layer of asphalt sandwiched between 2 layers of kraft type paper. The perpendicular flush threshold in the door jamb will look nice...it divides the spaces and makes it easier to finish one side without having to do the other side. Don't forget...the floor boards that abutt the threshold will look better if you can get the joint lines on both sides of the threshold to align.

Jimmien, thanks for getting back to me. I'll look into that product at hd. I am definitely going to make sure the boards align. It would look odd if they didn't.

So I can just butt the boards up to the transition strip on each side tight with no worries. Whats throwing me off is i keep reading about expansion gaps but if it's on the other ends I assume it's enough. I appreciate taking the time to get back to me. I'm looking forward to the project.

I'll post some pictures when I'm done.
Thanks again

I have the same situation in the doorways of a couple of rooms that I installed 3/4" X 2 1/4" red oak hardwood in. 2 pieces of flooring running jamb to jamb and the flooring on both sides perpendicular. I read 3 flooring books before starting installation, had several conversations with my supplier who has been an installer for a long time, and have gone on flooring web sites. The common theme is to make sure that flooring is properly acclimated to the installation site before installation and that the relative humidity is well controlled year round. Some, including the wood flooring association installation instructions say to leave an expansion gap on all 4 sides.....the instructions with my flooring say no expansion gap is necessary at the ends of boards....confusing? I guess the point is if a problem occurs in the doorway then it's going to be occurring all over the place. Extreme, prolonged humidity swings or floods are the enemy. Make sure moisture content of sub-flooring and flooring are at the correct moisture content and the floor will be happy. Get a humidistat ( inexpensive) and control the house humidity and you'll be fine with what you're going to do.

Jimmien, thanks for taking the time and explaining your knowledge and experience. What I have read is similar and states there shouldn't be any issues as well.

I am going to go forward with it.

Did you install the jamb to jamb threshold the same way as you did with the rest of the floor? Just nail it at the recommended spacing?

thanks again for your time. I plan to do this flooring job on Saturday.
You have been very helpful.

Yes, same nailing schedule. Depending on which end(s) of flooring (tongue or groove) will abutt the threshold boards you may need to use a spline/slip tongue.

As far as the threshold, the existing flooring has been cut so it will be straight edge. The plan was to butt the first threshold piece, the grove side up to that edge. There will be no interlock there. The threshold will be 2 pieces. The second piece will lock into the grove. That will leave me with the tongue going into the hall. I should be able to position the perpendicular pieces into that tongue all the way down the threshold.

Will that work? That first threshold piece won't lock into the existing perpendicular flooring. Only butt to it.

That brings me to one more question, will the narrow hallway look better with one continuous piece, or smaller pieces mixed in?

Do you have a router? If so, you could cut a groove in the end of the existing floor with a slot cutting bit and put the tongue of the first threshold piece into it and put a slip tongue into the other edge of the first threshold piece and put the groove of the second threshold piece into it and you would end up with a tongue facing into the room. If router is not an option how about a biscuit joiner? I'd be hesitant to leave this joint unlocked. Also, if the unsupported groove is hit just right it is subject to cracking.....if you do leave this joint unlocked fill the groove with half a spline/slip tongue.
As far as the hallway....lay down some long pieces and then some smaller mixed ones and see what looks better to you folks.

Yeah. I actually do have a router. I think I'll go that route. Lol.

I am doing this project tomorrow morning. Here is my last question for you.

I need to replace a few pieces in the middle of floor. I already cut it out. I dry fit the new pieces in place. I want to avoid face nailing these. Can I glue them down? What is the best glue for this? I plan to rip up the rosin paper where I glue.

Five-minute epoxy applied to both edges of the replacement to board to keep it from squeaking or urethane construction adhesive applied to the sub-floor. If you use the urethane put a weight on the board to hold it down tight until the adhesive sets up.

I just picked up some Pl premium adhesive. I think that's a uthrene construction adhesive. Will that do the trick?

Yes. That's the right stuff. Put weight on it. Run a 1/4" bead in the shape of the board. Careful not to get any where you don't want it...it stains.