Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: New Install questions
PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 11:05 pm 
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1) I am considering using Microbevel edge for 2 1/4" Bruce hardwood floors. Is there any issues keep it cleaned? I am concerned that it will get dirt within that will become difficult to remove.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 12:19 pm 
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None of my customers have expressed that problem to me with micro bevels.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 6:49 pm 
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I have not had any concerns with them being dirt catchers.

The only people I here say anything about them, are the guys that sell site finished flooring, instead of prefinished.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 7:59 pm 
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Thanks for the replies.

Does anyone have any recommendations on how to keep these clean? (sweeping vs wet mopping)


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 Post subject: cleaning
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:45 pm 
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I spot clean mine w/ a damp spnge and the sweep w/ a dustmop...stay away from any cleaners that leave residue or solids behind if you ever want to recoat.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 8:52 pm 
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I see you may be thinking about Bruce in your other post. Bruce makes a cleaner that works well and you just spray it on and pick it up with a terry cloth like mop. It’s very easy to clean a wood floor with this method. Also...many manufactures do not recommend straight water/water cleaner mixes as it can void the warranty.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 9:51 pm 
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Thanks for the posts on the cleaning tips.

Ok, my current question is this. I want to install the planks parallel to my joists. I have 23/32" down already as my subfloor. Is it really required that I put an additional plywood flooring down for more support? if so, what is the thickness I have to put down? And why?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 10:21 pm 
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Kezug wrote:
Thanks for the posts on the cleaning tips.

Ok, my current question is this. I want to install the planks parallel to my joists. I have 23/32" down already as my subfloor. Is it really required that I put an additional plywood flooring down for more support? if so, what is the thickness I have to put down? And why?


You should post this question in another thread to get more views but you can read this and decide. Sounds like another 1/2 inch of plywood is needed to be able to run any old way.

http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... layout.htm


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 04, 2007 11:15 pm 
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The brush and wand attachment, along with a back pack vacuum canister are the rave with wood floors.

Grime, sould be spot cleaned ASAP. Grime is what gets into the edges, but a towel cleans them out pretty well, unless your just down right slobs.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 09, 2007 11:21 pm 
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Ok, I have 2 renders of my house to show possible wood flooring layout.
The first photo shows a back to front layout. The second shows side to side layout. I am doing this install myself, first time too.
NOTE: If I go back to front, I have to add the additional 1/2" plywood due to my joists running the same way.

The renders explained:
- I mixed 3d and 2d for visualizatioin purposes
- The front door/foyer (TILE) is at the bottom middle
- Fireplace to the left (Living Room)
- back left is the kitchen, with island, that wall is a passthru wall
- Table/chairs represents dining
- back right (family room) with sliding glass door at far back right
- middle right (TILE) is closet/laundry/small hall/bathroom
- Front right is garage

I would like your input on which layout should be done. My house is kind of odd in a sense of this flooring as I have 4 squares laid out in various sections, there is no long room, massive room, etc..

Would you recommend:
1) back to front?
2) side to side?

IMO: both ways offer ideal patterns as far as eye appeal goes in various locations of the house. When one is best from one location, there is other locations where the other layout is better.

NOTE: If I go back to front, I have 3 very important "lines" to maintain in my limited flooring mind. 1) the entrance to the tile in small hallway to bathroom 2) the stairway wall 3) the fireplace framing; must all be very true perpindiculars. If the lines are crooked they will really show.

So, please provide input....based on what we choose I will have more questions, such as where should I start.

back to front
Image

side to side
Image
[/img]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:54 am 
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I like the side to side. Plus, its running the correct way across the joists, saving the hassle and expense of installing the extra layer of plywood if necessary. Is this flooring a 3/4" solid?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 2:21 am 
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Quote:
I like the side to side. Plus, its running the correct way across the joists,

I agree.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 7:17 pm 
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So then, if I did choose side to side, then should I pick either back or front and start laying the floors? Or is there a rule to start always in back or front???

Also, should I draw some "control" lines just to ensure I dont start drifting?

Other than that...does anyone see anything from these designs that might be trick for a first timer?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:23 am 
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I don't see any stair nosing to deal with unless you also have steps leading down.... other than that you need to figure out in advance how you will be transitioning to the hearth and tile.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:51 am 
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Location: Appleton wi, farm country
Kezug,
I just purchased a swiffer-vac. I works excellent for picking sand, crumbs, gronal even zipties and such off the floor. It has a 10.5 amp powerful enough vaccumn and is lite and easy to swing around with its rotating head. It gets in all corners and tite spots well. Also has a dust cloth that fits on a rack just behind the vacumn head to pick up dust and animal hair. I got a 16 pack of the cloths for 1.70. With a 3 x a week routine I can sweep my 300 feet in the kitchen dinette in a couple of minutes, and I would think this will keep the bevels clean if it is an issue.

Might be a good little perk for installers to give to their customers as it is 28 bucks though it is so easy it might cut down on recoats.

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