I do have stair nosing to deal with...right at the foyer are stairs leading up. So at the opposite end of that stair case is an entrance leading down to the basement. I will have the entrance to the downstairs terminated with a stair nosing.

As for the hearth/tile area. I plan on having the tile at the same height as the hardwood floor. The tile will then be "Framed" out with hardwood.

I appreciate the input...does anyone else feel strongly either way with the flooring layout? I am really at odds with what is best (not necessarily easiest)

Just a "newbie" but I like the side to side also.

Thanks for the replies.

My Sister-in-Law is considered an expert in architecture. She indicates that it is a must that we go back to front.

I am torn trying to decide what to do.

Question: If I run parallel to my joists, it is recommended to put additional 1/2" plywood down. Is this required if I do engineered boards instead of 3/4" hardwood as well?

LOL!!!!!! Architects!!! LOL!!!!!!!!!! The rules are as they have been presented.

Wood flooring goes across the joisting. You must beef up the substrate if you want to go with the joists.

Only other way you could possibly get away with going other than perpendicular to the joists in you case is ;

1) Go diagonal
2)Install another 1/2" ply down
3)Cut and install blocking underneath the subfloor in between the joists from below at every 2' intervels. This has been done with success for some cantilevered sections in homes where only a "small" portion of the total job is with the joists running in opposite direction to the main part of the house.

I am glad I got a chuckle out of you.

Have you ever done a job where you added 1/2" ply before putting down 3/4"? If so, how bad is it to do this step? Also, what am I looking to pay on avg per sheet?

The home owner bought some junky ½" plywood, the Home Depot guy sold him. I put it in and had not problems installing over it because it was a plank and not a strip floor. Had it been a strip floor, I would have made him take it back.

Ok, due to my situation...I am going to run my strips parallel to my joists....we think it will look nicer.

So now I am contemplating 5/16" instead of 3/4" because of the additional subfloor required...more questions:

1) If I go with 5/16" hardwood instead of 3/4" what is the necessary additional plywood thickness that i have to add since I am running parallel?

2) Also, what are the differences between 3/4" and 5/16" hardwood other than the obvious?

3) if I am considering 5/16" should I look at engineered instead?

BR-111 makes some nice 5/16" solid. After it's installed, you can't tell how thick it is. But to get the maximum solid feel, glue it down with a urethane adhesive that contains NO WATER. Thin solids can be glued down. It is one of BR-111 recommended installation techniques. And yes, use the 1/2" plywood.

Also, is there ANY wood flooring product I can install parallel to my joists without having to add an additional 1/2"?

Now for a question for the future: How many times could a 5/16" hardwood be refinished?

And as for the 1/2" Plywood. Can you be more specific on this? I was at Lowes yesterday and I had some choices and wasnt sure which to use. And of course no one there knew which to use either. Size/name/etc...

Thanks!

I was just thinking the other day that these big box stores should inform their staff of the items within the departments they work. Perhaps they get paid more if they become more knowledgable of these products by way of studying and taking some tests. Then they should even were a special badge or vest or something that makes them stand out to the consumer. I really hate when the only person i have to ask is obviously not knowledgable about the product in question. My favorites (read HATE) are when you ask someone and they clearly dont know, but will GUESS instead of just saying "I dont know" OR they pick up the product you have a question about and read to you the instructions (like I CANT F'ing read it myself!!!

Anyway, thanks FlooringGuy for all your help. I am going to start pricing out the CDX or BC of 4x8 sheets to see what my cost is going to be added to my hardwood installation.

Is 5/16" vs 3/4" hardwood generally the same price?

What is the best way to deal with Height Differences? I have an issue right now if I go with 1/2" UL + 3/4" hardwood in my kitchen because of my dishwasher. It wont clear that height when taking it out from under the counter. I am now struggling with cost issues with 5/16" hardwood as it seems to be more than 3/4" and with the cost of 1/2" too, I am getting sticker shocked.

So, perhaps I try going with tile in the kitchen and have the tile lower than the 1/2"UL+3/4"HW. However, how do I deal with the height difference. Tile is 3/8" + 1/4"Backer so I am looking at a height difference of 1/2 the difference.

Is this something that MUST be avoided? Or are their transitions that work with a difference of about 5/8"? (if so, any transition pics out there dealing with height differences)

I have some showing various ways to transition.

http://www.custom-surfaces.com/38.html
http://www.custom-surfaces.com/12.html

In my opinion you are going to a lot of trouble to run parallel to the joists, in a layout that looks fine with the wood running in either direction.