Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: New install - 5/8" bamboo - steps to take
PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 10:36 pm 
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OK, been reading up for awhile and been all over this board and I need to confirm some things... I'm getting ready to install 5/8" bamboo on main level over partially finished basement.

Here's some basic info:

1. RH in my house is ~45% and I do have a humidifier for in the winter so it will be consistent all year.

2. Subfloor is 3/4 CDX, don't have a moisture meter yet to check content.

3. Flooring is 5/8" solid horizontal bamboo (the 3 layer deal) in 3' lengths.

4. Covering multiple rooms and hallway, appx. 800 sq. ft.

Here's my questions:

1. Local home center guy recommended I glue the floor because of it's thickness (or lack thereof) and I would have squeeks if I nailed it. Manufacturers instructions say it can be done either way, I prefer nail because it'll be easier. Which one is best and why?

2. Does the length of the boards create any particular hazards I should be aware of? i.e. popping, etc.

3. Intend to put 15# felt and then flooring right on that and nail down, is there any other better way or concern I should have? Should I put something down to reduce noise in the basement?

4. In the hallways 1 board will span the width completely, should I cut some boards to put seams in the middle of the hall for visual appearance or will it look OK to not have any seams perpendicular to the direction of the flooring?

5. How in the #(*$& do I deal with the threshold at the front door? Read / heard many different options...

Thanks in advance for your response...

Rock


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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 1:02 am 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
1)
Quote:
Which one is best and why?
Gluing is BEST for the absolute most solid feeling and holding the flooring down and in place. It's NOT the best when you factor in cost, extra labor, clean-up difficulty and damage to subfloors if you ever need to remove any boards. I've nailed (stapled) down 5/8" bamboo succesfully quite a few times and it was a solid installation. No squeeks when using my Bostitch M111 FS with 1&1/2" staples
2) No.
3) #15 asphalt felt is the recommended generic underlayment paper for nailed down wood floors. If gluing, you could consider gluing down cork first then gluing down the bamboo. BIG expense on adhesives as you must use the same type. Nailing through a cushoin defeats the purpose as the fasteners will transmit any sound. Why not insulate the ceiling in the basement and use acoustic tiles for a ceiling?
4) Purely subjective. Dry lay the wood there and do what looks best to you.
5) Depends on the type of threshold you have. If it were higher and squared off, I'd be tempted to commit a flooring sin and butt the wood net to it. Or fab a mini reducer to cover your expansion gap. When working with floors, I often need to custom make thresholds, reducers and trims of all types to make a situation work.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 8:27 am 
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Yours sounds similar to mine. My installation is going fine, if slowly, because I also have numerous transitions and a loooooong halway to deal with. I am running my boards lengthwize in the hallway, because that is the direction that spans across joists.

Gary has already answered your questions, and I am sure that he has much more experience than me. I only wish to add that I have been making my own transitions at numerous doorways, and I installed a new threshold at the main entrance last summer, in front of a finished maple floor. Just look at numerous examples of transitions/thresholds, be creative, and work slowly and carefully. I assume you have a table saw ?
It is a requirement for dealing with anything that is even slightly unusual.

Good luck !


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2006 1:44 pm 
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Thanks for the replies... I'm headed over to the store today to investigate trim options, but it sounds like just making a piece for the doorjam will work ok. Thanks again for the info.


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