i had a worker put some travertine tile down in my kitchen and i instructed him to go very easy on the adhesive or perhaps use a different type of adhesive that is thinner than the one he intended to use on the first row of tiles as i would later need to get my 1/2 inch hardwood floor to lay flush next to the travertine tile. well, it didn't happen, when i got back from my trip i noticed the travertine tile (already a little more than 1/2 inch thick) was layed on top of about a 1/2 inch of adhesive. my problem now is that i have to get my hardwood to lay level next to the tile. any suggestions on how to get this done? here are some pics...

this is my first time laying down hardwood floor so go easy, please

i'll try to put up some pictures...i don't have a website

try www.imageshack.us, they host pics for free (just have to be under 1 meg I believe)

You could always gently ramp the(subfloor) hardwood floor in that area, although 1/2" is a lot of ground to makeup. Otherwise some type of overlap reducer would work.

The travertine needs that much mud to be set into. If not it will come loose, or crack.

An endcap reducer, is in order.

here is the pic... don't i need something could go from the wood to a HIGHER level and not the other way around?

thanks!



http://img131.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img131& ... C00792.jpg

It's simple! Install a reducer trim AFTER the floor is installed ON TOP of the floor. It appears your height difference is 1/2" so use a 1/2" reducer with the thick part butting up to and flush with your tile and the thinner section sloping down toward the wood. You may need to modify your reducer to get it to sit flush with the tile. Good luck!

Gary is correctomundo.

guys, what i'm trying to do is get the wood and tile level and flush on the surface. i'm not keen on using anything on top of the two. unless i'm misunderstanding you, i think the solutions above are not gonna help me. i'd like the two to lay side by side, flush and level. obviously, i'm going to need something underneath the wood planks along the tile to give them a bit of lift...maybe for the first 2-3 rows of wood planks... i dunno.

i know someone has dealt with this issue before... more suggestions please!!

nevian

You will have to follow Ken's advice and ramp it up. You would need the taper to be at least 8 feet across. I suppose you could fashion a makeshift float by attaching two straight plywood rips at a right angle.

i'm not sure i follow chuck....

is ken suggesting that i ramp a subfloor between the hardwood floor and the concrete?

if so, what product should i use and about how far out from the tile should i go to make up about 1/4 to 1/2 inch?

thanks!

nevian

How about a pic? I took plenty of them when I was installing--took that camera everywhere. In this case it was an engineered floor around a tiled area that had a vertical difference of 3/8" from one side to the other. In order for the t-molding to site flat I had to ceate a makeshift screed so the amount of floor patch would be consistant all the way across. Butting the hardwood to the tile after the floor prep in this job wouldn't have made sense because the tile cuts were irregular.

It looks like a concrete subfloor in your pic--I wouldn't suggest patching compounds for wood subfloors. Take the thickness of the flooring(using as a guide) and rip or cut a notch out of the end of a straight piece of lumber. In this case a four foot piece of flooring was used. This will allow the right amount of patch to be used in the area. Mix the patch, dump in front of the screed and pull it back over the work area.

Also it looks like a solid hardwood in your pic? I'd be real careful with that one on a gluedown if you want to butt the flooring against the stone. If the conditions aren't right failure is likely.

ken, that sounds like an awesome idea...

it is an engineered hardwood so i'm hopeful the sucker butted up against the tile will be ok.

now,
what product do you recommend for the patch..any favorites?

thanks,
nevian

a makeshift screed - genius.