Hi All,
I am installing a floating engineered hardwood floor and having trouble getting the last piece by the wall to fit tightly. I am a crpenter and have experience with hardwood flooring but this is extremely difficult. The tongue and groove joints are very tight and require quite a beating to get them together. Now that I am at an end wall, I can't figure out a way to get them together. I have tried a flat bar as well as one of those bars made for that purpose - but I am not getting anywhere. I even tried cutting out parts of the bottom of the groove to release some pressure. Do any of you know any tricks for this? Thanks
Ron

What floor is this? Is it a glueless?

It is Bruce Coastal Woodlands - it's a glue type (not click)

The proper tool designed for this is a pull tool. That crap from home Depot doesn't cut it for really banging on. I got mine from Tarkett but see they don't sell it anymore. This one is from Sinclair.
http://www.tools4flooring.com/sinclair- ... p-341.html
You might try using a different board. Also, carefully examine the tongue of the board you're trying to install to. It could be damaged. Take a small piece of the flooring with the groove in it and go down the tongue of the last installed board. Does it fit everywhere? If not, there is something holding it back. Once you've determined the t&g are in good shape, the dry fit the last board. You don't need to bang it home but just ensure it will go together before you glue it up. You'll probably need to carefully scrape any dried glue off the tongue before having at it again. It will go together if the tongues and grooves aren't damaged and you hit the pull bar hard enough. You think coastal woodlands is a hassle. The old Harris-Tarkett longstrip; you had to beat the s**t out of it to get it together. One last thing. Too much glue in the groove will make it difficult as well. Make sure you are not over gluing. Good luck.

Isn't that still true?

Guess what, they've finally gone glueless.
http://www.tarkett-floors.com/download/ ... 0Strip.pdf

You shouldn't have to beat anything, unless you have so much adhesive in the groove, that it hydrolocks. You can't compress water.

Last board puller

http://www.surfacesbyjerry.com/20.html

Yep, that's the same one I got. Best one out there IMO.

I think so to. I found that if you keep it down flat and twist it you can alot of leverage that way. Just don't damage the base without putting something between it. Stud locations are good if there is no baseboard.

Thank you all for the tips and leads.

I don't think I am putting too much glue in, but this stuff sure qualifies as needing to beat the s... out of it - I'll try less glue and see what happens.

I have another project coming up that I think a floating floor would be best. Is the click system easier to work with?

Jerry - where did you get your tools?

Thanks again - I have a couple other questions about some concerns about the movement of a floating floor. I didn't consider a couple things when installing it but, after reading some posts here, I now wonder about a couple things. I am wonderiong about the restriction of a too tightly cut jamb, and about how a hallway attached to a large room affects each other. I will start new thread in the general how-to section - I sure will appreciate your continued input.

Ron