Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Need help on refinishing 4-year-old floor!
PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 1:04 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 04, 2005 12:41 pm
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I've been trying to refinish my dining room and foyer now for the past 3 weeks! I have been very meticulous with the sanding and prepping the floor before coating it with the clear gloss finish but there is still dirt in it after it drys. Is there any way to get this dirt out or do I need to resand and refinish......Are there any tips or secrets of the trade you could pass along to help complete this process with a professional look?!


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2005 1:55 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
When there is debri in the final finish, one has to look at all aspects of the finishing process. So I'll attempt to walk you through what I think may solve your problem.
1) Abrade the floor. Depending on the finish (oil or water) there are a couple of ways to go. For the DIYer, I think using a square buffer will work out better. First, hand sand all the areas that cannot be reached with the buffer (corners and edges) using 220 grit paper.
2) Using the buffer, buff thoroughly using 220 sanding screen. Degloss all the floor. Next, use a 3M in between coats maroon pad and buff again. This will remove any scratch from the screen.
3) allow the dust to settle for about 1/2 hr.
4) dust and vacumm all surfaces in the work area. Cabinets, door jambs and casings, walls. Vacumm the floor very well.
5) Tack the floor with the right liquid. Paint thinner for oil-based and water for water-based. Using lint free towels, wet them thoroughly then wring out. You don't want them dripping wet. Now go around the perimeter of the floor cleaning the floor by hand with your dampened towels. Then, using a clean push broom, lay some fresh dampened towels on the floor and go back and forth across the floor pushing the towels ahead of you. Get every square inch. Do this about three times and let dry. Now run you hand across the floor. If you feel grit or dust, keep tacking until there is no grit or dust and let dry.
6) Now you're ready to coat. Using a clean plastic dish pan, pour your finish in that while straining it. You may want to strain it separately first. If using a satin, mix it well by strirring with a clean stir stick. Check your shoes and clothes for dirt. I will use "booties" over my sneakers to avoid tracking in dirt. If using old, large socks, make sure they're lint free. I use a 10" Padco paint pad for small to medium areas to apply the finish and screw it on a pole. Other guys use a floor brush and others use a lambs wool applicator or T-bar. I only use those on large areas (1000+ sq.ft.). Keep the doors and windows shut and turn off fans and HVAC. You want the air as still as possible at this time. Use a respirator and gloves. Using your prefered application method, apply the finish keeping an eye out for drips, dirt, missed spots and puddles. If you see a piece of dirt or a hair, pick it out and then feather the finish in that spot. After applying the finish, wait till it is tack free (about 2 hrs. for water based and 4 to 6 hrs. for oil) then open doors and windows to ventilate. Allow finish to cure before putting into use.
NO on-site floor finish job is flawless. The idea is to get it to look good from a normal standing position. The sheen should be even with no obvious sanding marks or lots of debri in the finish. Good luck!


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