I am installing prefinished Brazilian Koa. I want to limit the number of splines but I want to make sure that I'm starting in the best location. I am an experienced DIY'er but first time for hard wood. I am planning to start on the red line and insert a spline at the location. I would like to know what others would do?

Also, any special tricks that I should know about Koa? I'm installing it on a 3/4" plywood subfloor. Should I use staples or cleats?

I would snap a control line in the location of your red line, running front to back, ensuring it's straight and parallel with the walls and cabs (as well as can be had). Then I'd measure back to the exterior dining room wall on the right to snap a starter line at the wall, using the reference/control line to measure off of. Make sense? In other words, don't measure off the wall in the dining room to get your starter line but measure off the control line equal measurements. Then, start on the right wall of the dining room, checking at times to see if you are straight with the control line and not going off. Consistant nailing and good milling of the flooring helps greatly to keep lines/rows straight. As you get to the doorway to the kitchen/family room, re-snap your line for another starter line running through into the family room, keeping it parallel with your control line and keep installing in the same direction. Then install your spline to reverse direction to take you into the other side of the kitchen and family room. Got it?

Gary thanks for the fast reply. In order to snap a control line I would have to measure the same length from both the dining room and the family room and then snap a line correct? What would be the best way to ensure a true straight control line amoung all three rooms, dining room, kitchen and family room? Or do you do this by eye, or two squares?

When I measure from the first control line to the exterior dining room wall would I keep the measurement divisble by the width of the board and try to get as close to the wall?

Also, in order to save money we are installing shorts, i.e. no bigger than 24". Is there any tricks that we should know?

Gary,

Wouldn't it be perfectly acceptable for him to seperate the Living/Dining room from the Kitchen/Family room by using a threshold between the two? It seems to me that knowing he is using less than ideal 'Shorts' it may be an easier install by doing it that way.

KRV

Yes, but I wouldn't use a threshold but a "header" board in that doorway. A header board is simply one board turned the opposite direction and is typically used in doorways. He could do that and yes, it would make the install easier.

Yes. By your diagram, it looks as if both right exterior walls of the dining room and family room are the same, meaning in the same plane, or location of the foundation. Simply measure the same amount out from each far corner. After connecting the marks with a chalk line, then measure to all the other parallel walls and cabs to see if your parallel with those and the numbers are equal (or at least close ). IF the dining room and family room walls are NOT on the same plane, then you will need to use the dining room only for a control line. Just measure out from each corner and extend your chalk line all the way through to the family room, having someone help you line up on the marks. Then check for equal parallel measurements on all parallel walls and cabs.

Place a board next to the wall and leave your expansion space (1/2" or whatever you're using ). Now make a mark on the subfloor/paper exactly where the tongue facing out toward the room is. Measure from the control line to that mark. Whatever that measurement is, use it at both ends of your control line to get your starter line near the starting wall in the dining room. Savvy?

I'm not to sure about installing a header board. If I was installing a different material then yes, but in this case I will want the boards to run the entire length.

Question: For locations where the floor stapler will not fit can I use my pneumatic crown stapler or pneumatic brad nailer? Or should I hammer these in ole manual?

Has anyone worked with shorts and has some tips?

Don't face nail the flooring with a stapler. If the flooring is thin, 5/16" or so, you could use a brad nailer. But if the flooring is 1/2" or thicker, use a finish head nail. Most of us pros use 15 gauge pneumatic finish nailers of a good quality