I'm trying to tackle a flooring job myself and would really appreciate any advise you can give. This is my first flooring project.

I at a decision point as I'm about to make an order to buy the flooring for my basement.
I am planning to float a tongue and groove strand bamboo over the concrete slab in my walkout basement. I've prepped, measured and remeasured for weeks. The floor is in excellent shape and I've just tested the moisture content (calcium chloride tests x 3) and am waiting for the results. The layout is such that there is a 21 x 7 foot hall with one 12 x 10 foot room off the hall and the hall opens up into an 17 x 26 foot room. If I lay the flooring along the length of the 17 x 26 foot room I'll have to span a total of about 38' 4". The main issue for me is that I would like not to use a break in the length with T-molding to allow the floor to flow freely from hall to rooms. Can I get away without or must I put a T-molding in?
The flooring manufacturer specifically notes on their website that the flooring can be placed over a concrete subfloor with a vapor barrier if the MC of the floor is < 3. The rep for the manufacturer also tells me that the floor is very stable (MC 6-8%) and that I do not need to use T-moldings as long as I leave a 5/8th inch gap around any fixed object and vapor barrier. He says this is because the strand bamboo uses a resin making it super hard - Janka > 5000. The plank dimensions are 72 3/4 x 3 3/4 x 5/8.
I just don't trust the rep. The basement does not have a moisture problem.
I was planning to use a 3mm cork underlayment and glue the floor together per the flooring manufacturer's recommendation. Would using LL's Elastilon (just gluing the long ends) be of any help to prevent buckling along this long stretch? Would it in fact be better to float it over the cork, gluing the whole floor together?

Thanks again for any advice.

Well for one thing, strand bamboo is not all the same. It's not that easily floated as it is more like a soild wood floor than an engineered. Plus often times the finish covers the T&G so floating it in that case is an abortion waiting to happen.

Your below grade and you need to do both CaCl tests and relative humidity tests. Even then if those come out OK, that does not mean moisture levels will be Ok in the future. I always put down MVP4 below grade if floating and then 6 mil plastic.

Floating floors always need overlap transition strips, always. But I will never use them if it cuts up the flow of the flooring from room to room. Just where it transitions to other flooring. But then you need to undercut casings rather deep.

Thanks for your insight.
I'll check with the manufacturer about the finish in the T&G. I would imagine that glue would not stick and the floor would come apart if so.
I got the result of the calcium chloride test today - I did it in 3 different area on the floor and all were ok: 1.8, 1.8 and 2.0.
What is a relative humidity test?
Thanks for the advice for the MVP4; I did not realize I could do both.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean when you say "Floating floors always need overlap transition strips, always," but will never use them if it cuts up the flow of the flooring from room to room... Do you mean that I could get away with not putting in a T-molding between rooms if I undercut casings deeply? I plan to put thresholds that allow for expansion and contraction at transitions to other flooring.

Thank you.