Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:52 pm 
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Installing 3/4" hardwood in a family room that adjoins a kitchen. The last row of wood is where the family room and kitchen meet so there is no wall that would obstruct a flooring nailer or finish nailer. That's the good news. The bad news is the layout was such that I have to rip off the tongue on the last row to get the 1/2" space between the hardwood and the ceramic kitchen tile.

Whats the best way to attach this last row? Can I still use the flooring nailer with the standard 2" cleats even though the tongue is missing? Or should I go into the side of the wood at an angle using the finish nailer? I guess I could always face nail near the edge which would eventually get covered by the transition molding...


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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:20 pm 
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The 1/2 inch space probably wont be sufficient to place the footplate of the nailer into without damaging the ceramic.
Use your brad nailer and some PL adhesive under the last board.

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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 2:47 pm 
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You said 1/2" from the ceramic? Or did you mean 1/2" expansion after the t-moulding is installed. If it's from the ceramic , your not leaving room for the t-moulding plus expansion.

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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 3:27 pm 
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Floorologist wrote:
You said 1/2" from the ceramic? Or did you mean 1/2" expansion after the t-moulding is installed. If it's from the ceramic , your not leaving room for the t-moulding plus expansion.



The hardwood ends up about 3/8" taller than the ceramic. Was planning on using some sort of threshold instead of the t-molding.


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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 4:08 pm 
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dennis wrote:
The 1/2 inch space probably wont be sufficient to place the footplate of the nailer into without damaging the ceramic.
Use your brad nailer and some PL adhesive under the last board.


Not sure I understand the adhesive part. I have 15lb roofing paper under the wood.

Or do you mean glue the last row to the second to the last row?


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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:17 pm 
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Typically you would cut out the felt, and run the PL urethane adhesive in a zig zag pattern on the subfloor.

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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 8:43 pm 
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Floorologist wrote:
Typically you would cut out the felt, and run the PL urethane adhesive in a zig zag pattern on the subfloor.


Stupid question time...

If the 1/2" gap is required to allow the floor to expand, doesn't gluing down the last row sort of negate the need for that gap?


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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 9:06 pm 
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richh wrote:
Floorologist wrote:
Typically you would cut out the felt, and run the PL urethane adhesive in a zig zag pattern on the subfloor.


Stupid question time...

If the 1/2" gap is required to allow the floor to expand, doesn't gluing down the last row sort of negate the need for that gap?


No such thing as a stupid question.

Hardwood floors will still expand and contract when glued to the substrate.

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Howard Chorpash
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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 7:14 am 
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PL adhesives retain some flexibility even when dry.
Or if you are concerned, you could glue to the previous board, but like the others have said, no reason to worry in this case.

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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:24 am 
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I took a look at the PL web site. Looks like they have a bunch of different types of adhesives (construction, subfloor, polyurethane, etc). Which one in particular should I look for.

Thanks,


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 Post subject: Re: nailing last row that is not up against a wall
PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 9:40 am 
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Well, I always use a polyurethane adhesive, but the other guys here might have their own suggestions as well.

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