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 Post subject: ??? Nailing Concern ???
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 10:16 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 9:01 am
Posts: 10
Hello again!

I am so thankful for individuals, such as yourself, willing to share their expertise and knowledge!!!!!

OK, I have another nailing concern. Someone else here had posted about experiencing splitting and cracking when installing their flooring. It appeared to be due to the "hard" wood they were using. I too am using a very hard wood: BR-111 Brazilian Tiete Chestnut - 3/4" thick & 5.5" wide planks.

According to the directions, I will nail into the tongue side of the plank. Since this is my first job, I am not sure exactly where the nail will be driven (above, below or directly into the tobgue), but if splitting or cracking is a concern, would I be better off to pre-drill and use a regular hammer to install the flooring? Is there anything wrong with this method?

As mentioned in my earlier post, I am only covering a foyer and it is only 72 square feet. And, although this is my first flooring project, I am very handy and feel this is a doable project because I have no problem taking my ever loving time (too much of a perfectionist at times)! Therefore, with time being no problem AND a desire to get a great installation, is there anything wrong with pre-drilling and using a hammer? If this is a mistake, please explain why so that I may understand.

Thanks again!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 10:41 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
With only 72 ft of flooring to lay, you could do the old way of hand nailing. Pre-drill the nail holes and use flooring nails if you can find them. You may have to order some. They look like a spiral shank casing nail.
http://www.mazenails.com/catalog/catalo ... group=FLC2
Or use cut flooring nails like these.
http://www.mazenails.com/catalog/catalo ... group=CUT2


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 11:54 am 
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Thanks Gary,

Sounds good! I had thought that maybe the air nailer or manual nailer would better help ensure the wood was pulled together tightly. Since you didn't mention this, that must not be a true statement.

I am assuming that as long as I properly "seat" the planks together initially, hand nailing OR power nailing provide the same results ........ they simply hold the plank in place.

So, as far as the nails you recommended, I will need to see if I can purchase them locally. I was thinking the nails used for the manual or pnuematic nailers could be used for hand nailing also. Obviously, not true?

Thanks again!

PS: When face nailing the last couple of rows, would I use the same nails I install the flooring with OR a finish nail?????


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2006 12:44 pm
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TVL wrote:
Thanks Gary,

Sounds good! I had thought that maybe the air nailer or manual nailer would better help ensure the wood was pulled together tightly. Since you didn't mention this, that must not be a true statement.

I am assuming that as long as I properly "seat" the planks together initially, hand nailing OR power nailing provide the same results ........ they simply hold the plank in place.

So, as far as the nails you recommended, I will need to see if I can purchase them locally. I was thinking the nails used for the manual or pnuematic nailers could be used for hand nailing also. Obviously, not true?

Thanks again!

PS: When face nailing the last couple of rows, would I use the same nails I install the flooring with OR a finish nail?????


I think the manual or power nailer would certainly help the floor get pulled together. But, for only 72 sf, maybe a tight floor isn't as necessary?

The cleats used in power/manual nailers don't lend themselves very well at all for hand nailing. In fact, I think it would be almost impossible.

Personally, I think that you need to get a few sacrificial boards and a power nailer and get the air pressure and striking force figured out to where you don't shatter the boards.

When I did a BC install, we went through probably about 2-3 boards testing out the nailer. Eventually we found the right parameters and everything went together beautifully.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 4:48 pm 
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Thanks again to everyone!

Sounds like there may be a little concern with manual nailing ....... am I correct?

I can purchase a manual nailer locally for about $200 (Porta-Nailer 402) and get the job done. Then I will have two options, keep it for future use OR sell it to someone else. If I were to purchase the Porta-Nailer, is it considered an adequate nailer? I see the manual nailers can sell for a lot more ...... just wondering if you get what you pay for?

UPDATE: Since posting this message, I found I can also get a Bostitch MFN200 manual nailer for only $15 additional. If it is recommended I use one of these instead of hand nailing, which is the better: Bostitch MFN200 OR Porta-Nailer 402? One has a ratcheting feature and the other does not ....... not sure if the feature is important or not?

No one has the nailers available for renting very close by, that is whay I mentioned purchasing one.

Thanks again!!!!!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 27, 2006 9:35 pm 
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Unless you think you can drive a nail with a single swing, you need the ratcheting feature.

Are you you planning on putting more flooring down ever again? If not, I'd rent a pneumatic nailer and pancake compressor. You can do 72 sf in a day with no problem.

If you truly plan on doing more than the 72 sf., I'd invest in an air floor nailer and a pancake compressor. In fact, I'd recommend the Porter Cable/finish nailer package deals that are always out there plus the floor nailer. That way you get the floor nailer and a face/blind nailer. You'll get most of your money back on Ebay if you decide to sell it later.


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