I'm getting close to finishing my Kahrs Builders Woodloc and I have two areas (doorways) where the wood meets tile. I purchased the Kahrs reducer strip so it would match, but when I rest the reducer on the edge of the tile, the reducer is nearly 3/16ths higher/above the wood floor. Surely this is a common issue, so how do the pros (and others) address the difference? Should I simply look for a reducer with a lower profile? Looks like I may need a reducer with about a 7/16th gap to fit just right. The Kahrs is about 9/16ths. I don't suppose I can modify the reducer. I even cut a small piece of the reducer and shaved the nib edge on the bottom to make it flat (I took the measurements above from this modified test piece), but of course that did not help much.

Those are common problems and why we carry stains and wipe on poly. It depends on whether the tile cut edges need to be covered or can they be left exposed. If you want them covered you can rip the bottom off of the reducer on a table saw, be careful. Or look for another profile to use. It does not have to be a Kahrs trim.

If the tile edges are good and clean you can rip a t-mold length wise and butt it against the tile. Same remedy for your exterior door problem.

Jerry, you're getting tricky on me! You say just rip it and fit it, but sometimes I can cut a piece of trim twice and it's still too short!

The tile is no longer nice and clean as I trimmed it to run the flooring into that part of the hallway so it to look good. I guess I would need to make some sort of jig in order to trim the bottom off of a reducer. Any advice (or pictures) there?

Still working on that front entry with the metal door frame. I kinda like the idea of the square nose piece and undercutting all the molding to fit it in. But on the other hand tucking under the side panes and butting up to the metal frame (and then caulking) seems the easiest. Not sure how it will look and I would have to really rip up some boards to go back and fix it.

And I was moving along so nicely....

I'm not getting tricky, I said be careful . You can scribe a line and belt sand it or better yet take it to a millwork lumber yard and have them run it through a jointer. If you use a table saw cut the piece a couple feet longer so your hands stay away from the blade.

Do not try that butting up deal with caulk on the door, Everything gets tracked there and you need something to hold the floor down since it floats.

I may have a picture of the square nose solution. Only problem with that is if it runs under the door casing too, that piece is hard to get in unless you can slide it in from the side or cut in two pieces. Thats why i prefer something thin you can bend like a mini reducer ripped and flipped back wards or rip a t-mold in halves.

Jerry,
On that mini reducer solution, what do you mean by ripped and flipped backwards? Are you saying to rip it lengthwise, say, a half inch from the fat end and then put the cut side against the threshold? Doesn't that seem like an abrupt transition?

If a piece of t-molding is ripped in half lengthwise, doesn't that effectively make it a square nosed-type of a molding? I guess you're saying the t-molding would be easier to slide in the gap between the threshold and door? What would I do with the exposed ends if they are not tucked under the sidelights?

If I do use molding at the metal threshold I have two issues:

1) The distance from the top of the flooring to the top of the threshold would only be about 3/8thof an inch (maybe a bit less). Not much room for molding and I doubt a piece that thin would hold the floor down.

2) If I do use a thin piece of trim against the metal threshold, I would have to glue it to the threshold. Is that acceptable?

If I use the square nose solution, I figure I can put the molding in place at the door and then I would have to use shorter pieces I can slide in from the side and glue. What does that sound like? I'm really looking for the best compromise between looks and complicated work.

Oh, and a side question: what color/brand stain best matches the Kahrs gunstock? Something I can get locally.

TKS TKS TKS