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tamalotes
 Post subject: T-molding and door fames
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 12:47 pm 
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Hello,
I installed hardwood floor in my house. I did this all by myself as a newbie.
In general, all went OK.
However, I am not sure what to do regarding the t-molding and the door frames. I did not remove the previous molding, and added an extension.

The attached picture may be clarify my problem.

http://picasaweb.google.com/tamalotes/P ... 2026534018

Any ideas will be welcome.
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
CGS

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Amish made hardwood
Gary
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 2:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
Yours is a common mistake made by many DIYers. One is supposed to undercut the door casing and jamb to allow the flooring to be installed UNDER those vertical obstructions. You will now need to remove that board next to the door and undercut the jamb and casing. Then cut a new board to install that slides under the casing and jamb.

From HARDWOOD INSTALLER DIYer tips:

Quote:
Cutting The Door Casings

Quality installations need proper attention to preparation and detail. What to do around the door casings is oftenPreparation of hardwood floors. Undercutting door trim asked. They should be trimmed to the same height as the flooring so the hardwood will slide underneath providing a clean professional appearance. Professionals rely on power jamb saws that cost $200-300. If you have a few casings to cut a hand saw will work just fine. Using a scrap piece of wood, lay it directly on the concrete cutting the casing with the hand saw flat to the scrap wood.

If you have more than a dozen door casings to trim, renting a power jamb saw is an option but hard to locate. Many flooring tools I've mentioned can also be obtained online.
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tamalotes
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 9:21 pm 
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thanks!
Seems like I have a lot to do... I mean cutting.
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Ken Fisher
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 5:03 am 
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Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
By the picture it looks too late to do anything with the door casings.

Here's a new pictorial on the blog...

Cutting Door Casings With Jamb Saw



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tamalotes
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 9:44 am 
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I see your point. Is there any alternate solution for my mess?
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Gary
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 1:19 pm 
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It is not too late to undercut the casing and install a new board that fits underneath it. You will need to use a small handsaw instead of a powered jamb saw for the casing. Something like this:

Image

Or This:

Image

Use a small scrap piece of flooring as a depth guide and completely undercut and remove the lower section of casing and the jamb as well. Doing it by hand is hard but I do it that way all the time when my old Crain Super Saw will not work in a tight corner.
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Ken Fisher
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 5:28 pm 
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I thought about that too Gary, but I think getting a new board in could be a real bugger, depending on the lengths of the product. If they're all 42"...well it could be possible, but you would probably lose an end joint tongue getting it in.

Need a better photo of the whole area to the other casing.
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Gary
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:56 pm 
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I agree. But even if one had to cut a board in half to finagle it under the jambs and casings, that would be much better than what the poster has. I would cut the board in half and on that cut end butt, bevel both ends and stain and finish to match a factory end as well as possible. Glue them on the butt ends and I think it would be fine. However, it maybe more than your typical DIYer can handle. But what are his options? If he leaves it like this, he'll need to use wood colored caulking all around that area. And I've actually seen that done, several times. :? Looks pretty bad!
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