Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Moisture Vapor Test Kit
PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 6:19 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:22 am
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I purchased a Precision Compnents moisture vapor test kit from Lowes and the directions say to make sure that the test area be free of a sealer. My floor is sealed which is a requirement to lay engineered hardwood floors. I tested this by pouring water on it and the floor never absorbed it. So will the moisture vapor test still be effective with the sealer in place? None of the rental centers around here rent a moisture meter. Help


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 9:47 pm 
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Location: Austin
Who sealed the floor, and what exactly was used??

Not all sealers are compatible with acrylic or urethane adhesives. The sealer is sold as a system, with the adhesive, to maintain all warranties.

The concrete must be tested for moisture vapors, without any sealer on the concrete. To do any patching for low spots, the sealer must be removed.

The sealer must be removed if it is not part of a moisture blocking/adhesive system from the same manufacturer.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2006 10:25 pm 
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I assumed (my mistake) that since the water that I poored on top of the slab pooled it was sealed. Meaning the slab was sealed when the house was built in 1993. But it sounds like the sealer you are talking about and the sealer I am talking about aren't the same.

Quote:
sealer is sold as a system, with the adhesive
Are you saying I need to put down Bostik MVP and then come back later and lay the wood with Bostik Best or do I only need to put the wood down with Bostik Best?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2006 7:48 am 
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If the water beaded up, and didn't absorb into the concrete after 5 or 10 minutes, your going to need to bead blast the concretes surface, or your going to have bonding issues.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2006 12:13 pm 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
Or you can go with a floating floor. If I had to "bead blast" a slab in a residence that was occupied, I'd walk away from that job as the complaints would be constant. That would be a "lose-lose" situation, as opposed to a win-win, which it what I attempt to acheive.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 23, 2006 8:22 pm 
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I'm taking your advice and installing a floating floor. I think that is the best for a DIY person. I plan to start filling in the dips in the slab with the portland based leveling compound Friday. How much of this stuff should I buy for a 600 sf job? I know that's hard to judge without knowing how many dips there are. Also, I don't have an aluminum screed to level it, will a straight 2x6 work?


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