Hello! New to the site and have been reading quite a bit. I am also new to installing flooring and of course am trying to tackle a complicated project. In our entry way, hall, kitchen and eat in area, we would like to lay 1/2" engineered flooring with an occasion 18"x18" 1/2" thick granite tile. Where I would like some advice is how to get these floorings to be equal height? Looking at the granite flooring, I will need to put a "cement board" of some type and actually have found some very thin stuff that gets good reviews. Then probably a total of 1/8" thinset. This would equate to about .75". So would 1/4" cork work under the wood flooring? I plan to nail down. Or does anyone have another underlayment that would be about 1/4" thick?

Thanks in advance.
Robert

plywood

I figured, plywood would be an option. does that mean I will not have to put anything else down? Vapor barrier? Additional underlayment? If I need a vapor barrier, can you recommend one?

What type of subfloor do you have now? And, related, what type of hardwood install are you planning on doing (nail, glue or click).

If you have plywood, I would nail the hardwood and I agree that adding plywood to level it up would be the best thing - has the most structure and grip for the nails.

Debbie Gartner, aka The Flooring Girl
http://TheFlooringGirl.com
Westchester County, NY

You can use Bostiks Best or any other urethane adhesive to glue the tile/stone down with. This will also allow for movement.

Flooring Girl - I looked into the joists in the basement and it looks like I have OSB subfloors. I see meaurements listed: 23/32" x 24" and also saw 17.5MM. Made by Eagle Forest Products in 1998. So not sure the exact thickness of the OSB. I have 1/2" engineered flooring and plan to nail down.

So with it being OSB does that change recommendations?

floormeintucson - When you say use Bostik's best to glue down the Tile, does that mean I wouldn't need to have some kind of underlay? That I could adhere directly to my OSB subfloor and it would allow movement and thus avoid cracking?

It is 3/4" OSB.

OSB is krap but essentially yes. It must be fully 100% adhered. Read the BB tech sheet.

If I was doing my own floor over OSB I would bite the bullet and install new ply. But dang, ply has gone up, way up since last year. But you gotta think, is there that one bullet left in the chamber thats going to shoot you down? Will you chance it?

I agree w/ Stephen - plywood is much better - either replace the OSB or add some on top (pending heights and plan with the granite). If you add on top, you might be able to get away w/ 1/2" or even 3/8".

I would also make sure (as you know) that there is something different there for the granite so that it won't crack. Generally, cement board or mud do well. Remember the wood subfloor can expand contract w/ humidity and move...the granite won't...so if the subfloor moves, the granite (since it's rigid) will crack. Marble cracks more easily given the veins, so glad it's granite.

Debbie Gartner, aka The Flooring Girl
http://TheFlooringGirl.com
Westchester County, NY

Thanks Debbie! Stephen had mentioned using Bostik's Best under the tile as it flexes. So my understanding is that I wouldnt need the cement board anymore. So I could add 1/2" Plywood, then lay the engineered flooring and Granite tile with Bostik's. If this is not recommended let me know.

Option #2: Put 1/4" Ply over the entire floor. Then put an underlayment under the wood and use a thin cement board under the tile. My concern with this scenario is getting the floor too high and have issues with doors etc.

I really dont want to go more than an added 3/4" if at all possible.

Option #3: Put 1/4" Ply over the floor only where the wood flooring will go. Then use cement board and thinset where the tiles will go.
Thoughts?