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Great site!
We want to replace the carpet in our house with an engineered wood floor.
All of the concrete slab is covered with old 12x12 VAT tile, which is barely stuck down and pops up in whole tiles with a putty knife.
What is left behind is a relatively smooth floor with a very thin layer of black hard mastic. You can scrape off a lot of it with a paint scraper (turns to black powder). Adhesive remover works fine but is expensive, messy and toxic.
Will the new adhesive stick to the old, if not how is it to best remove it? I'd rather not nail down plywd (if I had to, would 3/8" be ok?)as the floor abuts tile in several different places and there would be a height issue.
Secondly, I would appreciate any thoughts on flooring types. Because we have a high sloped wood ceiling that is all wood, color matching is really important.
The woods that work well in order of preference are , the 5/16" Br-111, Amendoim, the 3/8" Mannington Jamestown Oak( 10 year finish) and a Anderson 1/2" Oak (25 yr finish)
The Mannington seems to have a better plys, the BR 111 a better finish and the Anderson is fine but the color is not quite right.
I would prefer a 1/2" floor if the color were right, but several salesmen have told me that once the floor is down you can't really tell. With regards to the finish, some have told me that they are not all that different and the year distinctions have also to do with marketing.
We plan to stay in our house, but won't be hard on the floors. I have also been told that most people never refinish and if it does need to be done you really don't want sand, but screen or use some kind of system that doesn't need sanding. So in fact the thickness of the wear layer is not so much of an issue (even the 1/2" Anderson has a thin-1/16"- wear layer).
Lots of questions! I would appreciate any anwers.
Thanks,
Don Lee
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