I only became educated about the humidity via this board. Temperature control was the only thing mentioned by the rep and the ilnstaller never mentioned temperature or humidity. I'm going to find a humidifier today if I can (that has a meter on it). The AC wasn't on for the first week after the installion and I have it on now at 79 degrees to control the temperature. If lack of humnidity is the larger of problems then having the AC on will probably just make it worse! Thanks for the information!

If you have 20 dollars and a ride to Radio Shack, you can buy a hygrometer and find out what is going on.

By the way: Always defer to manufacturer guidlines over what you read from ignorant carpet layers.

Don't put yourself down, you gave good stuff toward the thread.

Humidity readings...I took humidity readings within 1/2 hour of sunset here with the following results:

Location temp humidity

Outside 82 42 (Temp range 60-90 at this time)
Inside house 80 40 (AC set to 80)
Garage 82 42 (Finished, insulated...unconditioned space)

I think the garage most closely represents the conditions that were inside the house at install. The AC was off for over 1 week during and after install. The temps were getting to 100 at time of install and house was reaching 90 degrees. I am really not noticing the cupping (or waves) as much at this time as the raised square edges (caused by the slight gapping?) Thanks for all the input. I'll attach some pictures soon. I am really considering going with a micro bevel on the next go round (If this one doesn't settle down). Once the house has stabilized (2 more days) I am thinking of laying approx 40 more square ft to cover our pantry floor (this wasn't completed becuase we ran out of wood). I was thinking of having the installer put down the 6 mil then the 3 in 1, then the wood. This space has a transition strip so I would like to know how it does with all the conditions controlled: Tramex=5, temp=78, humidity above 35. (Man spec=35-65 for humidity). Thanks again for all the info.

I purchased a box of competing product from Kahrs. I installed a box of the failing product next to a box of the new kahrs over a sheet of 6 mil poly. I controlled AC (set to 79 degrees) and humidity (humidifier set to 35 %). The tap and lock floor required a rubber mallet and tapping block to get it together while the Kahrs simply folded together seamlessly. Both floors were put together within one hour of each other and it was immediately apparant that the milling tolerances were much tighter on the kahrs floor. The "bad" floor had overwood on some of the seams but not near as excessive as it is on the 1100 SF that has been in for a month in my home. The "bad" floor was lying fairly flat when I first put it together but over the next week, 3 of the 4 corners rose up to approximately 3/4 inch off the slab (I have dated photos to document the changes in the floor). The lippage also increased substantially during this period. The Kahrs floor looks exactly as it did on the day I put it in! All seams tight and laying flat. I asked my retailer to come out and he agreed that my floor looked very bad compard to the Kahrs. The mill paid for an independant inspector and he took a lot of moisture readings etc on the installed floor and on my test floors. It is my feeling that he was trying to find a way to again blame the installation. He would not discuss his findings and I do not yet have a copy of his report. I do know of other people in my area who had the same problem with the same floor! Question: what does the industry allow for overwood and is the spec the same for beveled edge floors as square edge floors? It would seem to me the spec should be much tighter for a square edge floor since the problem will be much more apparant! Thanks,

Gtek