What grit would you normally finish off a herringbone floor with when using your Trio ? And is the floor then ready for finish or do you hit it with a disc buffer as well ?

Well, which grits I use is based on whether I'm going to stain the floor and how dark the stain will be. However, if the floor is going natural, I would start by cutting the floor with 50 or 60 grit on the hummel. After that I would use 36 grit on the trio to flatten tthe hell out of the floor. Next I would go back over it with 80 or 100 on the hummel again. The trio will leave very distinct and noticeable elliptical scratches with the heavier grits. That is why the hummel is necessary after the 36 grit pass. The other way to do it would be to cut the floor over and over with the trio until you finally reach 80 or 100 grit disc, but this obviously takes fooooooooorrrrrreeeeevvveeer. The hummel route speeds up the process ten fold. After the second hummel pass I would use probably a 100 grit disc or move straight to a 60 to 80 grit screen. you could go with a higher grit screen but it really doesn't matter. The trio gets floors so smooth that it almost adds depth. That is the only way I can dsescribe it. Even a 60 grit screen on the trio looks and feels amazing. When it comes to staining a herringbone floor dark. Boy, I don't know if I would even attempt to use the trio as a finishing tool. I would flatten the floor with 36 grit , but probably abandon the trio after that. Reason being is that it gets the floors so smooth that it closes off the grain preventing the stain to take dark. Good news is, if someone is asking you to install a herringbone pattern they probably are smart enough and rich enough to purchase a floor that fits their color tastes. Hope that answered your question.

We have been using a Trio for years. I love the results we get and like the machine. However, it absolutely does not replace the edger. We use a drum sander with 60 grit then run edges with 100 grit edgers and orbitals. Then the trio with 60 then 100 then 100 grit screens. When we're finished the floors are as smooth as glass and have a slight sheen to them. We use alcohol to open the grain for staining. The Trio will replace your buffer (we use ours for inter-coat abrasion as well as sanding) but it is designed for finishers on the upper scale of quality finishes. Most new construction or mid to low level priced remodel finishers can not charge enough to make the Trio a viable option because of the additional steps. One little side note, to make sure that you have left no 60 grit scratches you have to scan the entire floor with a halogen light after your final screening. They come out easy enough but they will definitely show in the stain if you don't catch them. The machine is both a blessing and a curse. If you want the best possible finish with no dishing and no visible swirl marks you should use one and be prepared to spend extra time on the sanding process. If you want to burn through jobs quickly and easily and produce a passable, good finish then stick with old school sand and buff methods. It really boils down to how selective your want your clientele. For volume oriented companies I don't think the Trio is a good idea.

I have never personally use the trio but have considered buying one a couple times. It is my understanding that it is great for blending, recoating, and getting the best possible buff job. It would probably be great for staining maple, to get a perfectly uniform surface. Also, I am not sure if it cuts out the majority of the edge sanding or not.