Hello,

It comes down to the last 4 rows that I am not able to use my Bostitch stapler. I am able to blind nail 2 of the 4 rows with my Senco finish nailer (15 ga. x 2"), however, the 2 rows next to the wall I need to face nail them. My questions are:
1. Should I cut out the 15# felt paper and use lthe combination of liquid nail and 4d x 2" finish nails to install the last 2 rows?
2. Does the 4d nails need to be nailed at an angle or can they be straight up and down?

I tested the face nailing by using my Senco 15 ga. nailer to face nail but the Braz. walnut is too hard for it.

Your suggestions are greatly appreciated.

1) You can if you want to. Many do.
2) It sounds as if you are going to hand nail. If so, pre-drill your holes and try to get them into the floor joist locations. This is the only time it matters. I'd use #6 finish nails and tag the joist locations.

Gary, the only problem is that I am running the planks parallel with the joists. I can only nail into the 1/2" underlayment and the 5/8 subfloor. I am thinking about using trim head screws, but the head is a little too big. Or if I can find small amount of spiral shank or ring shank finish nail that I can buy.

It is prefinished wood that I am using, thus using screws and plug don't wook too well.

Any suggestions

Since it's prefinished, the least amount of nails, the better. So use your liquid nails (or similar) and perhaps a few finish nails to hold the wood down and in place till the adhesive dries.

Thank you Gary.

I take it then I should mark the locations of the joists on the lower part of the wall before I start nailing the floor down then?

Here's the deal about nailing down wood floors. It is NOT necessary to mark the locations of the joists when installing 3/4" thick T&G flooring over 3/4" thick subfloor material. The reason? The angle of the 2" fastener is approx. 45 degrees and only about 1/8" of the fastener will protrude through the bottom of the subfloor. This applies to blind nailing the flooring with a floor nailing machine of any type or brand. HOWEVER, the big exception is when FACE-NAILING the first course or the last few courses next to the wall. Since one drives the finish nails straight down and the finish nails are typically 2" or more in length, trying to hit the joist locations is much better in terms of holding strength because you will actually penetrate the subfloor and hit the joist AND since the fastener (nail) isn't being driven at an angle but straight down, through the subfloor, one will get much greater holding power (strength) by nailing into the joists JUST IN THOSE SITUATIONS. So, to summarize, only attempt to nail to the joists when face-nailing, otherwise, it does not matter. Savvy?

Makes sense! So it would still be a wise idea to make tick marks on the lower part of the wall (that will be covered with base molding anyways) so that when face nailing the outer rows, I can hit the joists?

Why not? If that helps you, I see no problem with it. If my floor joists are 16" OC, once I hit one, I'll know where the rest are.

True enough. I'm not too positive even where these joists are...I just have a general idea. The spacing between the nails seems to vary between 15-17" I'm assuming that it's error in screw placement.