I have a difficult lay out (for me ) and would like you to advice me how to do it. I am planning to install laminate flooring in my kitchen and utility room. The kitchen itself has complicated shape. There is 36 inch door to the utility room. Is it possible to install this flooring without any transition (T molding) between the rooms. I do have schematic of the floor plan but I am not sure how can I attache it.
Appreciate any help.

It's done all the time but always at one's own risk if a problem should develop.

Most laminates will have a maximum allowable span. Check your install instructions for the product you are using, and if the total distance across AND along the layout is less than this you can do it. Make sure however that you undercut the doorframe sufficiently to allow proper expansion tolerance.

You will have to remove the bead on the locking mechanism to be able to slide it under the door jambs and negate the t-mold. I've found most dyi people dont realize this is ok to do, all you need is a little titebond glue and wala no more toe grabber.

Kevin, do you use the yellow or white titebond for laminates?

Thank you all for the tips. First of all the max span in my case is 25ft width wise and 40 ft lengthwise so I am within the spec.

Kevin when you say remove the bead on the locking mechanism do you mean the tongue or the lower lip on the groove side of the panel
After removing the bead do you create butt joint or is it still tongue and groove but you can now slide horizontally not under 30 deg angle.

I still have one questions. As mentioned before I have two rooms (kitchen and utility room) to cover. At this point I would like to start in the kitchen with the first panel having tongue facing the starting wall. This wall is a common wall (between two room). Can I finish the kitchen inserting the tongue of the second raw into the groove of the starting raw, and later finish the second room by
putting the panel with the groove on the tongue (the first starting raw ). If this is not allowed how do you deal with "peninsula" in the kitchen.

Thanks again and I hope, I expressed myself clear enough for you to understand.

usually take the bead off the groove side leaving the toung and groove intact. This will allow you to slide the board in flat without having to tilt it to lock the board. I use white titebond for laminates and tighbond2 for real wood.

Same here, white for laminates and yellow glue for wood.

Thanks

Thanks for the answer. How about my second question regarding reversing installation procedure . In the utility room the second row would be attached by putting the groove on on the tongue (not the tongue into the groove)?

Thanks in advance

That's to be expected in many layout case scenarios, it's no problem.