Amish made hardwood

It is currently Fri Dec 27, 2024 3:09 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 6 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Keeping boards tight at the end of the install
PostPosted: Thu Sep 26, 2013 4:33 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 24
I got some information on the hardwoodinstaller.com site but assuming I don't get a hold of something like a power jack what are the techniques for keeping boards tight while face nailing/blind nailing at the end of the install near the wall where you cannot swing the hammer for the flooring nailer?

There is some mention of using screwdrivers/prybars but it's not clear how to use them to get the boards tight.

Any suggestions?


Top
 Profile  
 

 Post subject: Re: Keeping boards tight at the end of the install
PostPosted: Fri Sep 27, 2013 12:10 am 
Offline
Valued Contributor

Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:36 pm
Posts: 705
use a pry bar opposite angled..wedge it at close up and use your knee to hold it as you pry the boards tight..

use glue on the floor for the last 4 courses..topnail the lat at the edge where trim will cover..

_________________
James Hernandez
All Flortec Inc, West Milford, NJ

http://www.flortechardwood.net


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Keeping boards tight at the end of the install
PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 8:07 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Wed Aug 28, 2013 8:42 pm
Posts: 45
We use a chisel, place it tight to the front of the tongue, maybe at an angle similar to the angle you would nail it, hammer the chisel into the subfloor, and pull it in tight. Flat bars can be used in lots of ways too especially on the last row, put it between the wall and pull tight. One way not to use it is to put the short leg in the crack and lift up on the long leg; that will lift the flooring up and not sit on the subfloor. if you use it that way push left or right. If you put the long leg in the gap you want to pull it towards the floor and pushing the wall side of the board tight to subfloor. They also have something at lowes that you sit on the tongue and it has a lip that you can hit with a hammer a little further off the wall.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Keeping boards tight at the end of the install
PostPosted: Sat Sep 28, 2013 11:15 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 24
Okay thanks for the suggestions guys. Yes I noticed that the last row is not too difficult since you can get the prybar between the wall and the last row and pressure the boards into place.

I used a prybar on the rows further out and it is a bit tricky. I came up with a system using some leftover flooring and wood shims rammed between the wall and the row being nailed and managed to use that to ram to boards tight.

I will also try the chisel method and also check Lowes for that tool.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Keeping boards tight at the end of the install
PostPosted: Sun Sep 29, 2013 9:56 am 
Offline
Valued Contributor

Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:36 pm
Posts: 705
you did it right..thats all you need to do..and as I mentioned..some glue under these boards will help hold them and eliminate top nailing to far out into the field which with sheet rock up can be up to 4 rows from the wall.that is unacceptable especially for a prefinish.

use glue..use a finish nailer through the tongues as close possible then facenail the last board close to edge where it can cover by trim.

_________________
James Hernandez
All Flortec Inc, West Milford, NJ

http://www.flortechardwood.net


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Keeping boards tight at the end of the install
PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2013 10:32 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Sun Nov 04, 2007 3:03 pm
Posts: 24
Okay thanks again for the tips. I came up with the following method for the boards further out which works for me. Screw in some lumber at the correct distance away from the boards being nailed and then use a piece of wood to wedge between the screwed lumber and the flooring. I then used tapered shims (I had them left over from installing doors) and hammer those in from the side until the board is rammed snug.

Image


Top
 Profile  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 6 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group

phpBB SEO