I'm a long time lurker here who is about to install his first site finished floor. I've learned allot here, but I also learned that there is no substitution for experience and knowledge. I'm currently doing an extensive home addition including adding a second floor In Florida's Bay area, in which I will be doing in unfinished 3/4" Brazilian Cherry. I've read a ton on BC installs, but I figured that some things are truly on a case by case basis. So here is my plan thus far and my questions.

I'm installing over a sub-floor that is 3/4" plywood with 3/8" plywood screwed and glued to it. I plan on using 15 lb. felt.

First question, the age old debate, staples or cleats? I was originally going to staple until I read the debate. What would you Pros do?

Second. I know BC is very stable and was wondering what would be the minimum spacing off the wall. I have a 21' room for my largest span.

You advice will be treated invaluably!

Thanks

BC is not as stable as they say. It is grown in so many different regions of S America, that consistency in it being stable is very questionable. That stuff moves, from what I have seen.

I would sticker stack the wood shipment to acclimate it. So air flow is achieved around every board. Acclimation could take weeks. Only a moisture meter will tell you for sure when the wood is at moisture content equilibrium.

Acclimate your plywood, too! Then making sure the subfloor is within 2% of the wood substrate(closer to dead on is better) you will be ready to go.

Thanks Perry,

I've got the wood sticker stacked. So on to the other questions. Any thought on spacing and fasteners?

Daniel Boone, one time tech director for the NWFA and long time Florida contractor, recommends cleats for areas of higher humidity, like Florida. I hace used staples before in B. Cherry and have not had a problem with the exception of the occasional split tongue. However, in your case, I'd agree with Mr. Boone and suggest cleats. Spacing off the wall? I'm guessing you mean expansion spacing. 1/2" should be adequate. 3/4" is recommended. You can undercut the sheetrock to gain another 1/2".

Thanks Gary!
And since none of the Florida contingent spoke up, it must be unanimous.

Now this is going to show just how green I am on hardwood floors. My flooring has a very small chamfer or bevel on the edges. Should I sand past those bevels?

So far I'm about 30k over budget on this renovation. So I have to make some sacrifices somewhere. But I only want to if I am not trading to much off. I was originally going to use 2 coats Traffic. Now I'm wondering if Mega would be OK in this application. It is the upstairs bedrooms. We don't play basketball. I'm just wondering if it's that much of a difference.
TIA!!!

That stuff can take forever to sand out even with the smallest bevels.

Thanks Ken, I was thinking that as well.

So if I do 3 coats of Mega, am I sacraficing much over 2 coats of Traffic?

Mega is not as durable as Traffic, not even close. Of course it will work but will need recoating much sooner. Mega is over rated by Bona. Even Pacific Strong is a better finish.

I got Traffic. Thanks again Gary.

I went to order cleats, but that's not as easy as it looks. My nailer (Central Pneumatic 95658) says it takes 15.5 guage cleats. Everything I find is 16 guage. I went to see what PowerNail recomends and they recomend 18 guage for 3/4" exotics.

What's size and is there a better cleat then others?


TIA

I have a similar nailer/stapler combo purchased from HF and I use the Bostitch 2" cleats sold at Home Depot/Lowes. I'm installing 3/4" solid tigerwood.

I might have to order cleats on-line. I've check 7 local HDs and 4 Lowes. 2 HDs have staples (one size, 2") and 1 Lowes has staples. Few good flooring stores. You would think in an area like this they wouldn't be that hard to find.

I'm getting ready to install the stairs. I plan on using white painted risers. Someone suggested that I use MDF for the risers and for the stringers. They said it works well, is more stable then poplar, holds paint better and is easier to work with. This did make allot of sense but still I'm wondering if it would hold up well in that application or if poplar is really the only way to go.

Also, I was planning on gluing the planks down. The stairs are constructed out of 2x12 pine I believe. Any suggestions on adhesive?

Do you have a Harbor Freight store in Tampa or St. Pete??
They have the fasteners there, way less expensive then any distributor.

MDF is OK, if your not going with the stained look. It is brittle

Thanks Perry...
I do have a Harbor Freight store, but unfortunately they only carry boxes of 500 for $7.99 a box. I got 5000 Power Cleats for $60.00 on-line.

Any preference on glue for gluing planks on the stairs?

Urethane based glue. I prefer to use more than others that may use a caulk gun. More coverage with a trowel, but can be messy if you're not familiar in working with it.

Bostiks or similar.