Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Installing in rooms next to eachother/hallways
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2006 1:48 pm 
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I will be floating engineered floors in 3 rooms, hallway, and living room in my home. When moving on to the next room from its door way, should I intall a transition T-molding and start over from a base wall in the next room, or should I continue the run fron the first room into the next? Can anyone help???

Thanks is advance!!

Roco.


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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2006 3:05 pm 
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I would do what the manufacturer suggests, Some say a continuous will work under specific conditions and some say to place a "T" molding.

Get the manufacturer to fax you their specifications for a floating installation of their product.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2006 6:14 pm 
I have done a few in the past few weeks , from different companys , all said not to run it any longer then 20 ' without a T cap.. I put them in the archways
and ran them from the T cap to keep the boards aligned ..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2006 9:22 pm 
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Thanks, I will contact the company and follow the advice you have provided. Sound like that will work perfect! Thanks to both!!!

Roco :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 4:43 am 
Welcome .. Good Luck ..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 6:54 am 
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BR111's web site doesn't address the issue of flooring running more than 20 feet so I would have to assume that is not a problem. I have a similar question. I'm planning to install a floating BR111 traingulo egineered floor. Do know if it is possible to place boards in a 90 degree angle at the threshold when going from one room to the next? Advice...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 8:22 am 
I would still put the T Cap @ 20 ' , just to be safe , or allow more room for expansion .. if you are putting the 90 degree cut up to a T cap i see no problem with that .. Others on the board may have a different take .. The BR site diddent address that issue also , i assume ..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 1:56 pm 
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Nope, they did not address that issue either but some things just have to know. My question regarding laying the boards perpindicular from room to room may have been misinterpreted. Here's a link to a picture that shows hardwood flooring laying perpindicular with no T cap. Any of you guys try this with engineered flooring? I would assume the expansion and shrinking would be a problem but wouldn't it work line an inlay?


http://www.free-flooring.com/hardwood/1.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 3:25 pm 
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I've done that before on engineered glue-downs. I have not attempted that on a floater. Floating floors have more movement than a glue-down installation so I would not try that in a doorway without a transition, out in the field should be OK if you know how it's done.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2006 8:36 pm 
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Heck, I'll do over 20' That's no problem, just don't go through doorways. "T" mold it!!!


I'll go as much as 66' with a floating engineered. Just let me remove the baseboard and undercut the sheetrock, and then ¾" baseboards and ¾" - ¼ round. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 2:05 pm 
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So what you're saying is, it's ok to go further than 20' as long as we leave for more expansion gap and as long as the T mold is at doorways??

Did I get that right??

Roco


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 3:56 pm 
I would love to do what floor guy suggest , but if you have a problem with some of this low end junk , and the rep comes out and sees no expasnion strip .. What Then ? what he says though should work .. instead of 1/4 space around the room , he is giving it 3/4 " , if i am reading this corectly ..


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