Scenario - 3x6 powderroom. Hardwood will run lengthwise, running off of existing hardwood from the hallway (hallway/powderroom threshold) into the powder room. Currently I've got the 'groove' side of the existing hardwood facing into the bathroom (from the hallway) at the threshold.

I'm going to rent a gun at HD and since I've never installed hardwood before I've got some things running through my head that I'm hoping to get answered prior to starting the work:

1) Is there a piece that I can start with at my threshold that has a tongue on each side?

2) I'm not very familiar with floor nailers, but how close will they allow you to get to walls (starter and ending walls) before you are forced to face nail? I've noticed on my existing hardwood floors that I don't see any face nailing at the starter row(s), only on the ending rows (look like about the last three rows that were face nailed). I understand that w/ the starter rows you would need to face nail the groove side which most likely will later be covered by shoe-molding, but are the floor nail guns designed such that they allow you to nail the tongue side of even the very first starting row?

3) The guys that installed my existing hardwood used felt paper underneath. Is it adviseable to do the same in my powder room? They said they used it to 'slide' the hardwood better and tighten up the fit...does the hammer/nail action of the gun not pull the hardwood tight enough?

5) Lastly, I've actually replaced my last few feet of pipe to the toilet flange and will be installing a new flange once I get the hardwood installed (as opposed to using a double wax ring). Anything to look out for when installing the hardwood around the drain pipe or pointers for doing so?

Thanks in advance for your help!
Jeff

Answers to your questions.
1) No! We use what is called slip tongue or spline. This is inserted into the groove side of a board to allow for reversals of direction. They are available at a professional flooring distributor that sells hardwood flooring.
2) Pneumatic nailers allow one to get a little closer before face nailing. You can hand nail a small room like that with well made straight flooring. You can rent all the nailers and compressors if you want. I could have it nailed down by the time you returned with the tools from the rental yard.
3)Use the asphalt felt. It does more than help the flooring slide better. The nailers will tighten up the boards. So will a scrap block of flooring and a hammer used as a tapping block.
4) What happened to # 4 ?
5) Naw. Just cut around it. Most important to make sure the toilet is sealed with your wax ring and nothing leaks.

Ok, so I can' t count...hopefully I do better when measuring for my cuts

Since I'm allowed one more question in lieu of missing #4, do you have any pointers on hand nailing the floor? Here is what comes to mind...

1) Use simple shiny finish nails or would finish screws work w/ pre-drilling?
2) If nails, what size nails work best?
3) Pre-drill for nails?
4) Any other general pointers to make things go smoothly? THis sounds like a strange question, but I know tradesman always have some crazy tricks up their sleeves. (what comes to mind is a plumber I once worked with who cut pvc in tight quarters w/ a piece of string...that kind of thing).

Thanks again!!
Jeff

If you haven't done so, remove baseboards and reinstall after the new floor is installed. UNDERCUT the door casings with a 12 point back saw and a scrap piece of flooring as a depth guide. #8 finish nails or #6 casing nails or if you can find them, screw shank flooring nails. It maybe safest to predrill. A trick: you can try waxing or oiling the nails prior to nailing to avoid predrilling. You will want to predrill when face nailing. Nail within 2" of the ends of each board and every 8" in between. Try to nail into floor joists. Nail at a 45 deg. angle through the tongue. Use a nail set to finish the last 1/4" of nailing (so as not to bugger the top or side of the board). Use a scrap piece of flooring as a tapping block to knock boards together. Use a large screwdiver as a prybar to pull flooring tight when needed. Just drive into the subfloor in front of the tongue and lever back. Use a matching putty to fill nail holes. Try Color Putty or Minwax colored putty. Buff excess putty off with soft cloth. Have fun!