Wife and I decided to put down some flooring down in our living room and computer room. At first we were thinking of putting down laminate but decided that on the long run hardwood flooring would be better for us. A local store had a 5" engineered Maple flooring on sale that I'm going install floating. I started removing the carpet/padding this morning and found parquet flooring. I'm going remove that too. And now to the point: The guy at the store said that I could glue between the boards (even though they lock) to make the seams waterproof. Not sure if he was correct about this. Any ideas?

and I apologize if this has been covered before

Curious what product this is.
The floating click wood floors I have installed are all coated on the t&g to resist moisture. Some of the manufacturers do however require gluing in areas like bathrooms and service areas. Some also recommend gluing the end joints to prevent gapping. Armstrong recommends on Lock & Fold gluing the t&g at door jambs & casings, because you have to cut off part of the locking mechanism to get the plank in place.

Never ask the salesperson technical questions. They rarely give correct advice. Refer to the installation instructions included in the cartons of flooring from the manufacturer and on the manufacturer's website. Also, each manufacturer will often have a tech. advice phone #. They made the floor and they will tell you how to properly install it. The salesperson MAY be correct ( that the grooves need adhesive ). But then again, they may not be correct.

Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna go pick up the wood here in about an hour.

More importantly, whether or not the manufacturer says you can glue the joints, it's NOT going to make the seams waterproof. Even if the tongue and groove are glued, the wood is still going to expand and contract, and you're going to always have a little space between the surface veneer of adjoining planks. You get a spill that sits for any length of time, it's going to get into the edges of the veneer and swell the wood, so it's always seemed like a waste of time and effort to me.

Just got back guys.
The floor is Robina Floors:Antique Walnut with their VR Lock system. The instruction say to glue the seams of the first and last row. This is my first time installing flooring so I hope it goes well.

Oh, and Floorologist, I didn't see anything about the T&G having any type of coating for moisture resistance. I bought an underlaymenht named Tekno-Sound. Its supposed to be water resistance and it says that with this padding I don't need the additional moisture barrier.

One more thing, as for removing the parquet flooring, since the floor is going to be floating, do i need to remove the glue that is left behind?

I use this for wet areas ie bathrooms, laundry rooms etc. You can thank Spence. It's a good add on I can charge for but be careful not to apply to much or you will get some hydrolics.

http://www.cal-flor.com/html/products/clickseal1.htm

You dont need to remove the glue from the parquet, just flatten or smooth it out with a razor scraper.

Quick updated:
I have the flooring down in one of the rooms now. 20 hours of work After removing carpet I got a good look at the parquet flooring. Not sure what previous owners had done to it but all the little sticks on the perimeter were loose and chipping. I went ahead with the removal, luckily the glue was brittle so it all came off with a floor scraper and some elbow grease on the edges. The baseboard on my starting wall was not straight so i removed it (and it broke in the process) and put 1/2 in spacers to get started. I decided to put down new trim and casings so that is still going on, hence my 20 hours in this one room. I am having a hard trim finding a transition piece to tie in the room and closet. I'll update again soon

Finding a transition to match or blend with a prefinished stained maple can be pretty tough , without ordering it from the manufacturer.

Well, i finished laying the floors in my computer room and living room. 45 hours . I'm just glad thats over with, I ache all over.I'll post some pics soon. I have a question about the transition pieces. I left about a half inch gap between the floor and the tiles underneath the door way. The problem that i have is that the wood is about 1/8 higher than the tile so that putting in a T transition piece would be difficult because of the height difference. Any suggestion on getting around this?

An 1/8" is not a big difference. Typical application for a t-moulding. I usually leave a 1" space at tile . This allows you to position the t-mould at more of a gradual slope, so both edges of the t-mould sit flush on the materials, and allows for expansion.. The 1/2" space you left will work, but most t-moulding legs are 1/2". So you may want to trim the leg to 1/4", or take it off completely.

Thanks for the reply Floorologist. The store where I purchased the wood said they carried unfinished transition pieces. I'm going to have a look those and stain them to match the floors. Should be cheaper. I think Lowes has one near the color i need for $40 for a 4 footer.

Ouch ! They must think they gotcha

Man, 10 bucks a foot for transition pieces!!! I am in the wrong business.
If you opt for unfinished pieces, staining properly may be a challenge but do-able, and far cheaper. Plus you can get "off-set" t-moulds which are designed to accomodate two floors at different heights and still remain flat on both surfaces.