Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:00 am 
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dennis wrote:
Plus you can get "off-set" t-moulds which are designed to accomodate two floors at different heights and still remain flat on both surfaces.



I haven't seen an "off-set" t-mould, like to see that. I wonder how they know what measurement to off-set it :?:

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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:23 am 
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Good morning fellas. Went to the store to look at the unfinished T pieces, they sell them at $1.20 a foot so that is a lot better. They let me have a small scrap piece (4') to bring home to test it out. As you said Floorologist, it fits better where the gap is 1". So my choices are either to trim the T to 1/4" or make the space in the floor a 1" uniform all the way across. As for putting it down, the bottom of the molding doesn't reach the floor, so I guess that I could install the small track and then use Liquid Nails?


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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:39 am 
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You can also mill up a thin strip of wood to place under the t-mould to take up the slack.

Floorologist, a long time ago, as t-moulds started becoming more and more an evil necessity in our industry, the mill that makes all our trims designed these "off-set t's" in a variety of sizes. I will check their website, and if they show profile drawings, will post it here.

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:44 am 
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aRabidLunatic wrote:
As for putting it down, the bottom of the molding doesn't reach the floor, so I guess that I could install the small track and then use Liquid Nails?



When using a track, you dont want the leg of the t-mould to actually touch the floor, it will not set flush on the wood. But you do want the leg to lock into the track far enough to be secure. If the leg is too high, sometimes its a matter of raising the track with some thin ripped wood.
PR urethane cartridge adhesive has more holding power than liquid nails, available at big box stores.

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:47 am 
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Yup, they do. website: www.owwinc.com

They call 'em "transition moulds" and show three different sizes in their catalogue; but will make them any off-set ya want.
They're in the flooring trim section of the catalogue.

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:48 am 
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dennis wrote:
Floorologist, a long time ago, as t-moulds started becoming more and more an evil necessity in our industry, the mill that makes all our trims designed these "off-set t's" in a variety of sizes. I will check their website, and if they show profile drawings, will post it here.


Hmm, havent seen those off-sets out here. Curious to see that.

But Ya, Isnt it amaizing how for years we didnt need t-moulds ?

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:52 am 
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Thanks for digging that up Dennis. Now that's a quality, custom t-mould, you wouldn't mind spending a few bucks on.

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:10 pm 
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Speaking of interior doorway moldings, does anyone recall the homes of yesterday. I'm talking about those 19th and early 20th century homes where most interior doorways had thresholds. My understanding is that these were used to allow rooms to be closed off from heat loss. This was back when nearly every room had a fireplace for heat. By having a doorway threshold, the door could be shut and the room closed off.

I understand that is not needed today. But the use of doorway thresholds is not without historical significance. Personally, I dislike T-molds in doorways but use them if I must.


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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 1:23 pm 
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That is an interesting concept, Gary. I always felt that in a lot of cases, these were rural homes, initially built with one or two rooms, and added onto as the pioneering or settling family grew.The thresholds just werent removed. This seems to be the case in the country home I recently purchased. There wasnt even a lot of thought given to having the plane of the floor from room to room at the same height.
I like your thoughts on the matter better.

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 2:04 pm 
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Gary wrote:
Speaking of interior doorway moldings, does anyone recall the homes of yesterday. I'm talking about those 19th and early 20th century homes where most interior doorways had thresholds. My understanding is that these were used to allow rooms to be closed off from heat loss. This was back when nearly every room had a fireplace for heat. By having a doorway threshold, the door could be shut and the room closed off.

I understand that is not needed today. But the use of doorway thresholds is not without historical significance. Personally, I dislike T-molds in doorways but use them if I must.


IMO that is a great concept for today. Funny how those thresholds always seemed to just fit in. I never realized the reasoning , but that makes alot of sense. I have hardwood through my home ( 3,000' ), and it's just the wife and I. We keep 3 doorways closed to avoid heating and cooling about 1000'. I dont have t-moulds, but thresholds may look good, and be practical.

Plus maybe you hit on an option for eliminating those cheesey t-moulds on installations :idea: .

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 7:08 pm 
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Since those older homes were always floored with wood and area rugs were often used, the doors had to be cut high enough to clear rugs. Plus, they could not be dragging on the floors. So, the threshold allowed the door to shut fairly tight on the bottom against the threshold. I have seen these on most all of the "historical" homes in my area that used fireplaces for heating. When central furnaces became more common, these interior thresholds were no longer used.


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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 9:38 pm 
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Out here HD has cut the transitions of hardwood in half and only knocked the price down a couple bucks.

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:03 pm 
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floormeintucson wrote:
Out here HD has cut the transitions of hardwood in half and only knocked the price down a couple bucks.



Did a job last month and the guy bought 4' t's for a 9' kitchen transition. That was custom :x

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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2009 10:31 pm 
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You should have charged him more! Two joints instead of one :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Installing Engineered Maple hardwood
PostPosted: Wed Oct 28, 2009 6:01 am 
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Yea, those 4' moldings at HD can drive you nuts. I mean, I know why they do it....they sell on price, most of the people that come in there need a transition at an interior door, and they b*tch about having to buy a whole stick. Plus the shorter pieces makes it easier on the amount of space they use in each bay. Just FYI...alot of those short moldings they stock can be ordered in longer lengths....I just don't think most of the sales people know it or offer the option.


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