hello all,

we're about to undertake laying our flooring (walnut) and have a couple questions from folk who have the know-how.

3/4"x6" walnut, zero bevel. Seems ridiculously hard (high heels don't marr it at all). Well aclimated - it's been hanging around for 3 years waiting for us to finish the other things (drywall etc)

1. Am thinking my 12x40 blade is too coarse, any thoughts? 80? 100? Thin? Am worried about chipping especially where I'll want very very clean edges where the flooring meets my woodstove pad. The two surfaces will meet flush.

2. Predrilling starter holes? Bit size? What's a good nail? and would you countersink them and fill or just surface nail? Would you "glue" the tongue at the same time?

3. Install surface is 3/8" ply over 1x4 white pine plank (yep, old house DIRT CRAWL SPACE). To bring the flex down and level the surface with other rooms, will be adding 1/2" ply before laying flooring. Which felt would you use? Vapour barrier under the 1/2" ply? (osb will likely warp over time due to moisture, that's why the ply)

4. Staples? Have read where people are having troubles with the tongue splitting off on these hardwoods. Do you have any tips to avoid this problem?

5. Staplers - what are your thoughts on rental equipment? Or should we just buy a stapler and sell it later (perhaps I have unfounded concerns of damaged surfaces from improperly used equipment) ?

6. Direction change? Is it "ok" to keep all flooring going in the same direction when changing rooms? Example, livingroom 20x20 leads to my sunroom 25x7 leads to my kitchen 15x12 in almost a "J" shape. All same level. Have seen some install jobs where they put down a threshold and changed direction. It seems to me a threshold would just be a target for the vacuum to chip over time. (yep, lady pet pieve thing).

Sorry to be a time hog. Want to do this right, the first time. Your imput is appreciated!

Michelle
Central Ontario