I am about to have a new floor installed on the top level of my condo. I currently have carpet installed . I am told that I have a sound board under carpet and under the sound barrier is plywood. I would like to know if I should leave the Sound board down and install engineered hardwood over it, or should I rip up the sound board and have regular hardwood planking put in instead of engineered hardwood. Can you tell me what the pros and cons are for each type of floor. Thanks

as long as the floor with wood is on top of you, then do whatever you wish. In florida, rolled cork, or other sound deadening materials, must be used in Condo's. If the soundboard is cork, float a floor over the top of it. I think you'll appreciate the sound deadening.

What exactly is this "sound barrier"

It may not be an approved substrate for wood, unless your doing a floating installation.

Could be that the plywood was needed to bring the floor height up with stone.

I know this must sound dumb but please enlighten me. Does a floating engineered hardwood floor actually feel like it is not nailed down when you walk on it. I don't think I ever walked on one before. Are there any disadvantages to floating vs. nailing or glueing??

I am building a new house on concrete slab. Am planning to use engineered hardwoods. I am deciding between a 3/8" and a 1/2" eng hardwood ... both are sculpted or scraped looking, and I've been told refinishing will not be an option, but the look is rustic, so they say who cares if they get scratched. I am inclined to agree. Am I overlooking something?

One supplier says I should use 3/8" because there will be too much height difference where wood transitions to tile if I use 1/2". Another supplier says 3/8" will sound bad walking on it, clappy, clangy sounding.

Yet another says they would float the 1/2" product they sell vs. glueing it ... I don't even know what that adds to the equation. The guy who recommends floating said the height difference would be imperceptible, because he uses transition pieces between wood and tile ... I looked at the transition pieces and didn't love them. So my questions are ...

Should I use 1/2" or 3/8"? Does it impact sound?
Should I float or glue? Does it impact sound?
What is the best way to handle the different height of the tile vs. hardwood?

Lastly, I have two Labrador retrievers who are reluctant about walking on hardwoods. Was hoping the sculpted/scraped might not feel so slick under their feet. Anybody have experience with the dog issue?

The floors I am looking at are prefinished. The 1/2" is glossier than the 3/8". I am thinking the more matte finish might work better with dogs, maybe feel less slick and not show paw prints as badly ... anybody else have an opinion?

I know I have a lot of questions. Any help is appreciated.

Jan Urbec, Jefferson City, Missouri

You had better read the Association Rules for your condo before you remove any sound barrier.

Hi Jan,

New construction on concrete subfloor for engineered hardwood in my opinion works best as a glue down install. Floating in a condo or smaller space or in a reno perhaps. You want an installation that will last a long time and floating floors tend to have more problems with seasonal expansion and contraction, not to mention that by comparison floating will sound slightly different than a glue down. Any low spots in in the subfloor will create small hollows that you can hear if you knock on the floor - glue fills this generally. You still need a flat subfloor for either installation.

The thickness of the wood is up to you based on how you want your transitions to look - if you don't want a transition strip, than you need to choose a material that matches the height of your existing tile. Don't forget to add 1/16th for the glue layer.

Lastly, Re: the dogs. We've had several clients purchase engineered hardwood floors from us and request all kinds of protective finishes after the fact because they have a dog and forgot to tell us, or just got one 6 months after moving in etc.... We always tell them the same thing - there is no product out there that can fully protect against dog nail scratches. You can do maintenance oiling applications to hide little scratches and spot repairs to touch up deep scratches, but your dogs nails will take chunks of floor up even if they are clipped and well maintained. Rustic look is the correct choice here, but even then, you'll notice it wherever to the dog makes turns or needs to get traction and digs in deeper. Get a product with a bevel if you can.

Hope this information helps!

Thank you very much. That was helpful. Appreciate you taking time to answer. My best to you, Jan Urbec