Hi All,

I just finished installing my newel posts and now it's time to finish the job. Should I install the nosing or the hardwood first? I've been reading that you normally do the nosing first but this job isn't a new installation ( i.e. there is already some old hardwood installed and I had to remove 3 rows of the old hardwood to do the job-- I'm trying to figure out how to account for space need to fit the tongue and groove). How do would you expert DIYers handle this?

your help is much appreciated,
Ron

Have any pics?

With the amount of information provided I'll try and guess. Hmmmn

Maybe you can just reverse the tongue and groove direction(http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... ection.htm) by using a spline. Finish the hardwood off and...

...then install the nosing.

I do have a pic, but for the life of me I couldn't find the "attach file" button.

Thanks for the reply, Ken.

Here's a pic! http://www.bisamp.net/floor.html
if this helps, the last piece has the tongue exposed. (not too clear in the pic)

Depends if your working to the nosing or working away from the nosing.

I'd continue the floor toward the newel post (more than one?) until you're close. Then fit around the post. I would also dry lay (don't fasten) the area until everything fits right. You may want to work with scrap pieces in place of the nosing until you get it right...they can be expensive if you screw up.

Cut all pieces of flooring to fit up to and around the newel(s) without nailing them in place so you can make adjustments if necessary.
Remember that the top of the stairwell opening receives the most impact from usage, so ideally, the groove of the nosing should remain intact and integrated into the floor system.
Sometimes, this can be accomplished by moving it out slightly and putting a new support under it (use either a trim piece or new riser).
If it would project too far, then cut it narrower and remill a new groove into it.
Alternatively, use a wider final board to accomodate the possible space between what would be the final board, and the nosing.
Every install has its own needs and there is no one solution that applies to all circumstances.

Thanks you very much for help, guys. The advice you gave has a lot of common sense to it, but being new to this, sometimes the "common" has to be pointed out by people who have done it before.

Ken, if I were to build up the hardwood floor up to the newels and then place the nosing, how would you fasten the nosing? I would think Glue would not be enough...

Well I would answer that question but you directed it specifically to Ken, lol.

HA! Nice to see hwflooring talkers have a sense of humor.
I only addressed the question to Ken because he suggested building up to the nosing. BUT... Anyone may answer the question.

Including you, Dennis

Well then.
Making the assumption that this floor is unfinished, I would supplement the glue (not replace it) with screws about every 15-16 inches, countersunk and covered by a wood plug, grain matched to the floor.
Simpler than this would be using 2 inch finish nails, set and filled with wood putty; also acceptable.

Countersink w/glue it is !! Thanks for the advice !!

PL Premium Urethane will hold that nosing all by itself, no problem.

I shoot tiny brad nails to hold it in place and not move on me, for the glue to set up.

plugs never look exactly right.