Hello,
Thanks for viewing my question.

I'm laying a floor (not my first but second) through an upstairs hallway approx 20 feet long.
When you get to the top of the steps to your right is the hallway and on either side are balconies, not parallel to each other. Walking the right banister balcony side it runs approx 12 feet then a wall jetisons out about 12 inches which runs about 8 feet down the hall. (bathroom and closet on this side).

My question is how would you approach this:

The right banister (base) in the hallway is not perfectly straight and not in-line to the bathroom/closet wall. So my starting "wall" (banister base) is not straight.

I was considering using transition moulding to account for this banister not being straight.

or

Scribing in the row.


Could I just lay a straight row abit away from the banister base then scribe in the "missing" row or do I have to start with that first row after I scribe it in?
I dont want to run the boards the opposite direction, it looks like a gang-plank then


I hope I havent confused you to much thanks. THANKS VERY MUCH

Hmmm, I'll give it a go but my camera is not currently working with my computer. I'll try my best with another camera. thanks.

If your plan is to start at that off-square bannister base, instead of starting your first board a bit away from the base and back filling with your scribed in piece; it would be easier to just snap a chalk line where that first full board will be. Then do your cut piece. It will be easier than trying to fit it perfectly into a narrow space between the base, and the first full board.

OK,
So what your saying is start with my first board already scirbed to fit then proceed to lay the floor.
Rather than, start with a first board 2-3 inches away from the uneven base and later scribe in the "first board" once I have several rows down.

I will encounter this later though when I get to the opposite bannister base, that will need to be scribe in as the last row.

How do you feel about using a piece of transition "T" moulding along these edges, new floor and bannister base. Acceptable in the world of wood flooring??

Thanks very much for your time and patience, John.

A t-mould would be acceptable, but will look like you are trying to cover up sloppy workmanship (at least to the trained eye) Do it right, you would will be happier in the long term. Also, the t-mould could present a trip hazard where it crosses the stairwell opening.

Thank you.
I'm going to give it my best!! I have a taper jig for the table saw, a belt sander, scibe and a strong will to achieve a beautiful result.

In the words of Thomas Edison:
"If we all did the things we are capable of doing, we would literally astound ourselves."


Thanks for the assistance and guidance........Priceless. John.

Still do not have a picture in my mind what your railing is like but maybe this will help.

If I understand it correctly I would do the following
1. setup my starting line as Dennis explain previously.
2. Use paper (anything that would span the railing).
3. tap the end ( or side )of the paper on the starting line and make sure it hangs over area of the railing that is curved.
4 take a knife and cut the paper to fit the curve. ( you could use something dull to press the paper at the edge where the railing meets the floor)
5. remove the paper from the floor and transfer the template onto the boards you are going to use in the curve. (tap them on).
6. cut the boards to the edge of the paper.
7. sand as need till it fits to your satisfaction.

Keith

Thanks Keith and Dennis,
I have my line snapped and everything is in hand to start today. Please correct me here; What is the name of the base that balcony spindles attach to?
Essentially, its a long 3.25" bullnose much like that at the top of a step. Thats what isn't straight, about a .5" curve midway.

I'll try to get pic up if I can. Thanks very much !! John.

Well, " a rose by any other name......" Anyway, baseplate, nosing, etc. Dont think there is one name for the piece, but we, and you, know what you mean.

Yes we do.....know what I mean.

Here's an update...............

The Taper pieces are fantastic, the first row of ripped floor is just about done.
Next question. The approximation of rip board and edge of baseplate are very tight. There is one area with space, that you'll need a micrometer to measure. all joking aside about 1/32 - 1/64 of an inch.

Can I work alittle wood filler in there? What do you recommend? Or just leave it?

Thanks, John (Thomas Edison) lol.

Update since immediate previous post:


The 1/32 - 1/64 inch gap... Gone after nailing in second row.

Thank you both very very much!!!

Have a great weekend !!!! Sincerely, John.

Glad it worked out for you, and that you spent the little extra time at the beginning of the job.