I am planning on installing 2 1/4" wide 3/4" thick solid cherry wood floors in two rooms in my house. I have already screwed the subfloor to the joists. One room came out great...really no flex nor squeak when walking on the subfloor. The other room I have some fixing to do from below because of one unsupported seam and dip in the middle of the floor.
I plan to install the floors at a 45 degree angle instead of perpendicular to the joists. What is the best way to start the install? How to measure for the 45 degree? From what I have read I will have to start in the middle of the room. What is the best way to install the first two or three rows. How have others done it here?

Thanks for the help,
Arjun

You don't have to start in the middle of the room. Take a speed square(it is the shape of a triangle) place it tight in the corner of the room and measure and cut your board so there is expansion gap on the 45º end cuts and shove it tight against the speed square and nail it. There is your starting board.


If you have 45º walls in the installation start off that. Homes that have lots of 45º walls or short walls, might not be a good canidate for a 45º install as I have found the hard way, not all the 45º walls were actually an exact 45º. and it may line up on one 45º wall but the other might be 40º, depending on the craftsmanship of the framing carpenters.

And keep in mind, unless you are planing on having net cuts to borders or other floors, it doesn't have to be exactly 45 degrees; just look like it. Who could tell if it was 43, 44, 45, or 46 degrees by just looking at it?

I never thought of starting off one wall. So if I start off one wall, I will still have to spline the other side of the first board and go back towards my start wall? For the starter strip I should be able to face nail close to the wall ( hidden under base molding ) and then blind nail the rest of this board?
I will only be butting up to other wood floors at the entrance to the room. I will have to cover this with transition molding once I am done.

I plan to rent the Bostitch MIIIFS with staples. My joist spacing is 12" OC with probably 1/2" or 5/8" plywood subfloor. Since I am doing a diagonal install, will this present a problem?

Once again thanks for the info.
Arjun

If your joists are truly 12" OC, then a 1/2" or 5/8" PLYWOOD subfloor will be fine. In theory, and I've done this, you can just cut the first board (it will be a triangle shape) with the opposing 45 degree miters on each side and the tongue facing out. Don't try to face nail it because odds are, it will split. Glue it down in the corner you wish to start in. Then cut the next one with the 45 miters and blind nail that with your finish nailer. Then just keep going till the M111 FS will fit in there. Don't whack the ends at the walls too hard or you'll be crooked before too long. Keep checking to make sure your rows are staying straight. It's pretty easy really. I only use one saw at the right end of the rows. Make my miter cut to fit that end. Then flip a board upside down and cut it without changing the angle of the saw and it will fit as a starter for the next row. Pretty cool idea, huh!

Thanks for all the help. Now I understand how to start with the install. I have the Porter Cable 16 gauge Finish Nailer/18 guage Brad Nailer/Compressor combo kit. What size finish nails should I use with the floors? Will this finish nailer work? Do finish nails do a good job of holding the wood in place? I have #8 spiral nails and I was planning on pre-drilling. Will this also work?

Thanks,
Arjun

You will have a squeak factory, if you use "stick" nails to do the entire floor!!

OK for starting & ending rows next to walls, but you really need to invest in a flooring stapler, or cleat nailer.

I assumed that he wanted to use that in addition to the floor stapler he mentioned. Otherwise, I can't imagine putting a whole floor in with 16 Ga nails!

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I was only planning on using the finish nails or spiral nails for the starting or ending rows near the wall. Once I get away from the wall I was planning on using the Bostitch MIIFS with staples.


Thanks,
Arjun

the only problem with working out of a corner is that your rows will start to bow back towards the walls at the ends of the rows the farther out into the floor you go.

Ive always had great success starting in the middle and working toward the corners, Sure its slower going to have to work into the corners But I think a newbie install would have problems keeping his rows straight starting out of a corner.

Just my 2 cents