My 3/4" solid hardwood flooring will sit higher than the trim around part of my staircase.

Wondering what the pro's would do in this situation ? One thing is important to me is making this look like a professional job. I'm even pulling all the baseboards off, so to not use a quarter round. Leaving the wood sitting higher than the trim isn't going to look very nice.

Here's some pics of what I mean.









I did go to a showhome and checked out how they dealt with it. Seems to me they used a much thinner plank than the 3/4" than i've got.. but it looked good and professional.

Here you can see, it sits just below the curve. Mine will sit above.

Pro's how do you deal with this when you come across it on a pro install ?

Rabbet the underside of the flooring so it fits over and just covers the edge of the trim. Also, chamfer the edge of the flooring to about 15 degrees so it gently ramps down onto the trim. You could also use a transition/reducer.

When you add ¾ inch to the floor next to the steps you will need to add ¾ inch to the steps also to keep the steps within tolerance of code. If you add only 3/8th inch thick flooring you may be within the tolerance of 3/8ths inch riser height difference.
You will need to find a way to trim the nosing, too, where it meets the step.
You need to find a stain and finish to match the color of the flooring, or get a pre-finished reducer, if it's offered.

Yes my steps are all going to be 3/4" I do not have any plank that's 3/8ths. My stair noses are all 3/4 also. So i think i should all be in code as such.. Just looking at finishing idea's as there's a small area of staircase trim that's lower than the height of the plank, as per the pics. Which would make for an ugly finish.

Saw you on another forum and you don't have a router. So another option would be to get some quarter round molding and cap the edge of the flooring that abuts the trim board. It looks like your flooring sits 1/4" proud of the trim board. The quarter round would cover the edge of the flooring and the edge of the trim board. Should be real easy to do and won't require any new tools or extensive cutting.

I don't mind buying a router and some bits, if its going to make it look nicer. Not used one before, but i'm learning

Before investing in a router give the quarter round end capping a look see. The quarter round will give the edge of the floor a round over look, hide the edge of the baluster trim, and make a nice transition. This effect can also be done with a router. I had mentioned the chamfer to soften the flooring edge but the round over will do the same softening but with a different look and profile. The router work would best be done on a router table vs free hand.....which would add more time/expense to make or buy.

Quarter round would be your best solution. You could even paint it white to match your thin nosing that you butt up to. If you buy pre-primed white quarter round you can rip it to the correct height on a table saw. If you don't have a table saw, I recommend buying one before a router. A good router will cost about a hundred dollars, then there are the bit sets or individual bits which can also be expensive.
You can also buy unfinished oak quarter round or base shoe and make the right size to cover the height difference and have fun trying to match the color.

1/4 round wont work he only has about 1/8 inc height difference. I would chamfer the edge and then refinish it. Bot before you do anything what is the subfloor? From the pictures it looks like particle board to me. if so that would need to come up.

Why would it need to come up? I was going to use Aquabar B as my underlayment.

Here's a pic of the subfloor, i have another thread about the unevenness in the master bedroom (and perhaps other area's) not pulled the carpet in the other area's yet.

It seems to me that you do not know the final elevation of your floor installation until you finish the floor flattening by sanding and shimming. It's common to find that nosings at the top of steps are higher than the sub-floor adjacent to them because the stairs' framing is usually made with dryer wood than the floor joists.
When the floor joists shrink as they dry out the steps keep the same height so there can be a quarter to a half an inch difference right next to the top step and where the sub-floor bumps up as it is fastened to the shrunk sub-floor. You may be able to sand the OSB down to make the flooring the same height of the nosing, but it may change after flattening. You have to check with a straight-edge.
Keep working on flattening the sub-floor to get as close to flat as you can before you start thinking about how you will need to trim the floor.
Plans can change as you get closer to the floor installation.