Floor Type: Mullican Engineered Hillshire Oak Caramel Wood 3/8" by 3"
Adhesive Used: DriTac 6200
Subfloor: Concrete slab 2 inches above grade - no barrier or padding put down
Installation Date: February 13, 2013

My notes on the installation:

1. No moisture test on subfloor - despite requirements by both the floor manufacture and the adhesive manufacture, no moisture test was conducted on the subfloor.
2. No moisture test on wood - despite requirements by the floor manufacturer, no moisture test was conducted on the wood prior to installation.
3. Debris and chips on subfloor - despite the adhesive and flooring manufacture requirements, the concrete subfloor had multiple divots up to 5" by 2" and 3mm deep which were not patched before installation. The subfloor also contained glue and residue from an old moisture barrier that was not properly removed before installation. The subfloor had lots of dust and debris which was not vacuumed before installation. The wood was installed directly over these imperfections. When questioned, the installer said "the glue covers that....the glue goes on top" while pointing at the large divots.
4. Non-urethane adhesive used - despite the flooring manufactures suggestion of using a urethane based adhesive and despite my repeated questioning about proper adhesives for a concrete subfloor, a non-urethane adhesive was used directly onto the concrete slab.
5. No "working area" installed - despite recommendations by the floor manufacture, the installers started installing the floor boards directly against the wall and door which was also their work and cutting area. Therefore, they had to walk repeatedly over the installed wood to access their cutting saw. No starter board was nailed down first.
6. Adhesive was not flashed before installation - adhesive was put down and within about 10 minutes floors were being installed over it.
7. No tape used – no tape was used to hold boards in place during installation and installers were constantly walking over newly installed boards.
8. Heavy equipment placed on new floor before it dried - immediately after the new floor was laid down, the installers placed a full sized clothes dryer directly on top of the new floor. The proper thing would be to put the dryer back in the laundry room next to the washing machine (about 10 ft away).
9. Large space between boards visible - hours after the installation was completed, a large gap between boards has materialized.
10. Squeaking and springy boards - a few boards squeak and appear to pop up and down as you walk on them several days after install.

What do you guys think? What should I do about this? Is it bad enough that I should send a letter to the installation company and document this for my records? Should I have the squeaky board replaced? Its near the end of the job site and we have extra wood so it should be an easy fix with just labor and no material.

I'd like to know about the "installation company." Is this one of those that do work for the big stores? Sounds like you got the newbie installers..unfortunate.

Pretty sad state of affairs no doubt on this one. I don't think #4 is an issue. DriTac 6200 is a great adhesive once you know how it should be used.

#3 If you're referring to holes left from tack strip removal, it's not a huge issue, but still looks better to float with a patching compound before the installation.

#5 is a real pet peeve of mine. I see that all the time on YouTube videos.

#6 That's the way I first used DriTac (late 90's) after years of using those older adhesives with the chloride stuff in it. Yes, I too would sometimes not read directions. I'm guessing you may be seeing some rippled edges (on the surface) at the end joints too?

I don't know what to say of the rest, except they need some proper education. Squeaks and springy boards can easily be resolved with the adhesive. That's the beauty in the 6200. It remains tacky. Adding some weight on the affected areas works wonders as long as there is adhesive under it or it's not on a pile of grit?

Thanks Ken.

The holes in my #3 were large divots in the concrete subfloor that the installers made while removing the old wood floor with a machine. I wanted them to patch the holes up first but that was not done and the adhesive and new floors were just placed over the chipped concrete.

I am pleased with the way the floors look but I am just worried that a year or two from now (after my warranty expires) we may run into problems because of the questionable installation. I am thinking about typing all this up into a letter and sending it certified mail to the owner of the install company for his records. That way if we run into problems a few years from now I will have a record of the improper installation that was done.

As an nwfa inspector I would say you seem to have learned more about installing this floor than the installers. Yes you need to send a certified letter return receipt requested to the company responsible for your install. Pretty much most problems will surface within a year so yes if you like the way it looks now good. BUT in a year you may not feel the same. If you wish to allow the installation company leeway by all means but Protect your investment. This is not an acceptable install if done in my house and definitely negligent. Get a copy of the mfg warranty regarding your responsibility, the installer responsibility and keep it handy.