I am sure this has been addressed someplace else but I didn't see it. An 1887 Foursquare with original Douglas Fir subfloor and T&G (the latter badly stained from years of original linoleum & tar paper) has settled so the center of the house is high centered. It is structurally sound and stable but since the wall between the kitchen and dining room is gone (just support posts) there is a 1" crown over the beam, a little higher where the beam sits on the center pillar.

1) Can I salvage the fir flooring from the tar and oil stains? Some on the 2nd floor looks pretty nice when refinished.

2) If not, should I remove the old flooring, then level (and grind?) and replace with new hardwood? Or - use the flooring as a underlayment, grinding it in order to level the floor out. The adjoining floors were built up (carpet and laminate) to match the kitchen floor which has an additional 1/2 inch of underlayment and sheet vinyl. Haven't pulled up the carpet but I suspect its the same original floor. That's a later project.

3) If I replace it with 3/4 T&G is narrower or wider more forgiving on an uneven floor?

Sorry to ramble. Gary, hope I used the terms correctly.

Dale C.

Yes. I Sent Ken some pics of a living hell we managed to resurrect. Maybe he can post them here if he's reading. Other wise e-mail me and I'll Shoot 'em back at youAs for the rest ... you may want to lay over it. I'm not too experienced with major sag issues. Maybe jacking the house???? If you do I've been told you must wait about 6 mos. after a house jack to do anymore to ensure that subsequent settling will not ruin any finish work you've done.... Hopefully the rest of the guys on this board will be of better assistance ...

The high center beam is a structural problem that would be better addressed by a structural engineer, general contractor or architect. We are flooring installers. Seems to me, you either lower the center beam by cutting down the support posts or jack everything else up. As far as refinishing fir floors, I have done many and I can tell you some turn out beautiful. And some you can't get the stains out. Also, you should know that some were nailed down through the tongue with regular nails. So when you sand them, you run into the side of the nail head. I have had this happen on a few occasions as these floors were not installed to be sanded but as subfloors or secondary floors. Is there a subfloor below these floors or are they nailed directly to the floor joists. If they are nailed to the joists, do NOT remove. They are your subfloor. Instead, secure them well by screwing and install another floor over the top. Or you can try to refinish them. If trying to refinish, DON"T screw them down. Instead, facenail where loose with #8 finish nails. Good luck.

Yes, there are 2 layers of fir. The top is T&G, so I will look at the nailing when I get it uncovered. The subfloor is fir plank, nailed directly to the joists. I'll see if the stains will sand out.

As for the structural issue - everything is stable and the rest of the house has been renovated around the current arrangement, so jacking or lowering could mess up doors, windows and walls. I'm going to leave that alone and work around it, somehow.

The best solution might be to knock down as much as I can with a sander, feather the centers with a little #30 felt paper and and install a cupboard over the highest point of the floor.

Will narrow or wide T&G be the most forgiving if I refloor it?

Dale C

Dale

I've got a hardwood floor job to consider where the subfloor has a single dip like you describe... and I must also do work arounds’ as the dip has been made permanent (and stable) with former creative carpentry.

You mentioned feathering dips with 30 lb felt and here.... I've considered the same thing.... but with what may be a twist. I'll feather felt layers backwards... smaller pieces at the bottom with subsequent (upper layers) increasing in size (width and length).

Is this felt layering format an original idea... and is it a good or bad one?

Can a 3' x 8' x 3/8" gradual (narrowing at one end) dip be filled well enough this way to nail 3/4' T/G hardwood at a diagonal across the entire room (IE diagonally across the filled dip also) and have the job look decent and be stable?

Or is this perhaps just another MM idea?

Thanks

Dave T