I just went through Charles Peterson's book for a second time and can't seem to find the answer I'm looking for. He did point out that the concrete should be rated at 3000psi or more to glue.

This is a cottage basement, with no room for an additional 5/8" ply subfloor. It is not heated in the winter. I believe the slab is 8" thick. The basement was poured in 4 slabs about 20' x 15'. Pine floors were installed upstairs. They were screwed from underneath and have not warped at all. They barely expand and contract even in the winter, with no heat / humidity.

I'm thinking of using Durabond D-261 Extreme Moisture Vapor Barrier Coating first, then glue the plank down with D-332 Premium Wood Flooring Adhesive. Then I would tapcon and plug the plank.

Is it ok to screw every 24" without destroying the concrete and plank? Would all of this work?

Maybe I'm not getting this...Your thinking of installing a solid below grade, skrewed direct to the concrete?

That sounds like what he's saying. Now the next question is why?

I think the screwing is overkill but if you wanna, it's not going to hurt the concrete using tapcons since you should drill it out first with the peoper bit. That goes for the wood as well, you will predrill yes?

Course you should moisture test the concrete before hand and not just a CME either.

The temperature here fluctuates from -30 to +40 Celsius. Humidity goes from 40% to 80%.

There is no room for screeds or plywood subfloor. The planks are 15/16" x 9".

The reason is because I'm afraid a 9" plank will want to buckle considering it's a cottage. There is no humidity control in winter or summer. I want to predrill, countersink and plug to avoid any problems.

I would first apply Bostik's Durabond D-261 Extreme Moisture Vapor Barrier Coating and then glue with D-332 Premium Wood Flooring Adhesive.

I want to know if there is any chance of damaging the foundation.

Sound like a risky proposition with no temp or humidity control and below grade I would probably decline.

I agree with Mickey, especially with a solid, let alone 9"

Well I'm one who would like to see you do it and document with pics. That would be fun. If you can afford to do it twice. Otherwise just use an engineered pine...after all thats what it is intended for. I would acclimate to a high rh before installation and note gapping would be normal in the drier season.

What the heck, it's just a basement not the Taj Mahal

LOL, Your warped dude! Barrel of monkeys!

Thank you Howard

Well, first the idea is not a good one (putting the floor in as described). However, dont think any amount of screws will stop the floor from buckling if subjected to excess moisture, because they wont.