I am getting ready to install (first time installer--although I have watched others and read up on it) unfinished 3/4 x 2.5 red oak flooring. Five of the rooms have oak flooring from the initial construction (guessing 50 years ago). I will be putting down the flooring in one room and down a hallway that the five rooms connect to. The room and hall currently has an old, very thin, vinyl tile on the floor. The new flooring will be close to 3/4 of an inch higher than the existing flooring in the five rooms.

Can anyone give any suggestions on how to handle the transition of 3/4 inch? Four of the rooms are bedrooms with doors, the fifth room is a family room that has a six foot opening into the hall. The wood layout for the family room and two bedrooms will be end to end, the other two rooms will be side by side.

I appreciate your input and any other suggestions you have for a first-time floor install.

First thought here is the use of a large reducer or one that slopes from 3/4 inch to 3/16" or so. 4-5 inches wide. I recall seeing them unfinished a few years back, but you won't find them at any common store. One could also run some material through a table saw to create the same effect. Takes practice getting a cut without saw gouge marks. Sharpened/new carbide tooth blade also recommended. It's also not a very safe operation unless you're skilled with the saw and know what you're doing.

Sammy,

There is no way that the new flooring would stick out that much.

First you must remove the old vinyl and the underlayment (likely some sort of thin plywood) from the subfloor. I bet that you will be able to get to about the same height as the excisting hardwood floor. You will need to do some extra sanding where the new meets the old to match the height. The old flooring is installed on the same subfloor as where the vinyl is now. So I'm pretty sure the heights of both will be close.

Johannes.

Thanks Johannes:

I was trying to envision why he was trying to do this. Not enough information from my house.. I guess back in the day the owner put VCT over the hardwood in the hall and "one room." The rest was carpeted over. Sometimes that older stuff can come up easy depending on what was used (and how it was attached) under the VCT in the hall and one room. Then I guess there's the asbestos thing. Maybe that's what he's trying to avoid?

If it's masonite, removal could be simple.

Pictures would be helpful.

You guys are right on target. I used a circular saw to cut a small piece out-----vinyl tile, adhesive, 5/8 plywood. Solid plank flooring on the joists. I was concerned that the plywood might be glued to the planks, but there is paper between---so that makes the removal easier. Tile was asbestos tested and no problem there. The new hardwood floor should be no more 1/16-1/8 higher than the existing, so we can sand that much

So at this point I will need to cut a line across to get started pulling up the plywood. Dumb question, but any pointers on how to pull the plywood in an efficient manner?

I am glad I found this forum. Thanks for your comments.

Cut in 2-3 foot squares. Adjust depth of saw so you don't cut up the subfloor.

Johannes.

I just started pulling up the 5/8 plywood that lays over 8-10 inch wide planks that are on the joists. The plywood is coming up fine. But, there are gaps between some of the planks, ranging up to approx .5 inch. Will those gaps be a problem if I put down felt, then nail the 3/4 x 2.5 unfinished oak on top of that? I guess if I run the oak in the opposite direction of the planks, I should be relatively okay. I might hit a gap every now and then, but not enough to be a problem?

Also, the floor is over a dry crawl space and part is over a concrete floor basement. Will 15 lb. felt be sufficient as an underlayment, or do recommend more or something else? Trying to keep the thickness to a minimum, since the new flooring will be around 1/16 - 1/8 higher than the existing wood floor that it will meet.

Thanks again for your assistance.