I just had a company install about 1100 sq ft. of Forrest Accents engineered handscraped in my house. The floor is slab on
Grade. They used an upgraded glue which prevents moisture intrusion. They tore up a combination of 15 year old engineered wood and ceramic. Now it is popping all over and driving us nuts. It's almost like stepping on bubble wrap. When you step in an area that pops, if you take your foot off of it, it won't pop for quite some time. The installer came once and fixed an area that flexed bad. They said they took a small needle and punched a hole in the wood and injected more glue into it. It did fix the problem in that area. I live in Florida and the wood was left in my house for several days prior to installation. Also, I read somewhere online that it could take up to 2 months for an engineered floor glued on to concrete to settle. Coincidentally, when I brought the contractor to my house to look at it, he said the same thing. What really burns me up is that a good portion of my city, tampa, have 100 year old bungalows on PIERS whose hardwood floors don't have this problem.
Any thoughts, comments or suggestions would help.

I don't contract nor install in Florida however all principles of wood logic and installation apply.

if the noise is coming from movement,then your sub-floor was not properly prepared or you often to accepts the costs to properly prepare it.

Lastly then you were not properly informed and educated to subfloor requirements and installation .

that aside...

climate control and proper install approach should leave you sound free,
glue type, spread rate and environment should leave you with a solid end product

Thanks James. After posting this I read through a lot of posts. Like you, many said that humidity may be the cause. So I put the temp really low while at work today. When I came home the number of pops was reduced by at least 50%. This is a problem though as if I have to run the AC all the time for the sake of my floors my electric bill is going to be sky high.
As for the glue, do u think that because the humidity was high it never had time to cure from the start?
Also, the wood floor that they removed to do the new install was extremely strong and a thick yellow (I actually got my shoe stuck in it!) It was 15 years old and everyone I talked to said that it was going to be a bear of a job to remove, and they were right. And that floor didn't budge. Which begs the question - if it was so good, why didn't they just stick with that?
Thanks again!

1. Only destructive testing, i.e. removing boards in the worst areas, will reveal what is causing your problem.
2. Concrete must be flattened, not level, to within 3/16” in a 10 foot radius.
3. Most adhesive manufacturers require 80% to 90% coverage must check the adhesive mfg requirements. Again, pull some boards and see if that coverage was obtained.
4. Not using the right notched size trowel only removing a board will you know.
5. Allowing the adhesive to flash over, dry to long, can result in loss of adhesion.
6. Raising temperature should have little effect once the floor has released from the concrete. And if it is moving it has released.
7. If there were dips not leveled the wood may release.
8. Adhesive sounding the way you describe would dry very hard and if applying some of the above would lead to crispy sound.
9. Go to www.woodfloors.org and find an NWFA Certified Hardwood Inspector in your area. This isn’t going to get better. An inspector can taking moisture content readings of the wood determine what humidity levels were present to cause this to happen.
10. If they did not scrape the old glue and particularly the thinset from the concrete you would most definitely be experiencing exactly what you are describing.
11. You don’t mention time frame but environmental issues generally would not affect your floor until it had been down some time. Most often this manifests itself after winter heating. Or prolonged periods of excessive humidity.