Hello all,

I'm preparing to install 450sqft of pre-finished Brazilian cherry lite 3-1/4' x 3/4" hardwood flooring.

I plan on using a Porter Cable FCN200 cleat nailer. I live in humid Columbia, SC and hear the cleats are more forgiving with swings in humidity. My wood has been acclimating for 3 weeks now inside the house. I am over a crawlspace that has a vapor barrier installed. The subflooring is OSB 23/32". The home is about 6 years old now.

Below is the layout of my rooms, eat-in kitchen (top right), living room (middle), foyer and hall (bottom left) that I intent to install in.




My plan is to run the planks as shown perpendicular to the joists. (I have debated running diagonal to the joists but with the poor consturction these days I'm pretty confident the 45 degree high bar would not line up with the hearth of the fireplace)

Now my questions:

1) I would like to start at the ceramic tile transition. This will guarantee a parallel transition between the wood and the tile. With felt paper down the hardwoods will make an almost flush transition. If I install an 1/8" expansion gap and caulk later. Theoretically I could lay the board with my gap down and use the PC to start nailing. Any reason I couldn't start there this way? How do I keep that first board from moving? A backer block won't do any good. I could face nail but prefer not too. I could use the ceramic tile spacers but the rubber spacers would likely compress during the striking of the nailer.

2) My longest boards are about 7-8' which is pretty close to the transition length between tile and wood. Should I use a full 8' board against the tile and then on the second course stagger another full 8' board in the middle of the first? Then I could spline the groove and be set for my run towards the foyer. Do I need to rip the groove off the first board?

3) Is a spline as strong as a routered tongue? I have a router but not the T&G bits? I could use the table saw to make grooves and then install the spline. More work but is it equally as strong? Worth the hassle?

I'm sure more questions will come but that is all for now!

Ryan

Here is an alternative way of addressing your transitions:

Since your Hardwood will end up flush to your tile you could install transitions to your kitchen , any other doors or other flooring material as well as framing the hearth and leave the transition strips with the tongue facing the wood floor you will lay. Then as you reach these pieces during your install you will cut you flooring to fit net to the transitions and router groves and cut the bottoms off of the female side. Then install with wood glue on the tongues, construction adhesive underneath (cut back the asphalt paper), and top nail with finish nails.

This will allow you to begin you layout at the longest visual reference point. The fact that the board next to the transition is not a complete board or that it might be smaller at one end than another will not be noticeable. More importantly it will give you a full board at all of your transitions.

Your first row you will face nail along the wall until you nailer will fit. When you work out in the open use a sacrificial board to back up the initial rows you are laying. After you have worked out 3-4 rows you can remove the sacrificial boards to begin work in the other direction.

Definitely get the router bit. Splines when glued in place are stronger than the factory tongues. IMHO. Since I glue them into both side of the female joints.

Barquios, thanks for your response I understand your response fully but have some questions.

Installing the transitions first makes sense which is what I intended to do by starting at the tile transition. But what would you say is my longest visual reference point?

Aside from the transition to the tile in the kitchen I will have 3 transition to carpet, another transition to tile in the hall bath and at the base of carpeted steps. Will I have to face nail all these transitions as well? At all the transition should I use liquid nails under the transition or just the boards that will mate to the transition pieces?

I like the idea of ripping off the bottom of the grove to install a board. I will definitely use that method.

You say this is an alternative approach which means my original plan is not completely illogical which is what I was looking for, thanks!

In your opinion what would be the minimum board width that would look aesthetically appealing, standard width is 3-1/4"?

What gauge and length finish nails are appropriate?