I've posted before and we still don't have a floor down. We have tried to put down 3/8" solid hardwood and have had 3 failures...mostly due to the wrong glue. We used Stauf 930 and 940 and both times failed. The first 2 times we had cupping. The 940 didn't cup but we have squecking in many places...the glue did not stick to the terrazzo in those places.

I'd like to have solid wood but will definitely consider engineered. You expert installers...what brand(s) do you recommend? I want something with a good wear layer and at least a 25 yr warranty, good milling, etc.

Can I get a successful install over terrazzo or do I forget about wood? I'm in Orlando, FL.

If we use an MVP along with a urethane will that do the job for solid?

What kind of moisture testing have you done?

Taylor Moisture Test....results 3.17#. I will say it was one of the contributors to this message board that recommended we use the Stauf 930 after our first failure. That's how Stauf got involved and we've had another failure with their 940.

My concern with another attempt is that we've used 3 different adhesives on the floor. The first adhesive came up with no problem. We got most of the 930 up but not all of it...it was a bear to remove. We haven't removed the 450sf of wood from this failure so I don't know what we're going to be looking at with the 940.

We are using a professional installer and he's suggesting a floating system. I don't like the sound and feel of a floating wood floor. Is this the best we can hope for?

I personally wouldn't recommend either of them for solid wood. 930 or 940. It is the 960 you needed and you would not have had a problem, as long as you acclimated the wood to moisture content equilibrium, and not just an amout of days pulled out of thin air.

Acclimation was not a problem. We had the wood in our house for over 6 months. So, if we try this again...what do you recommend, a 3/8" solid or an engineered...and give me some recommendations as far as manufacturer, # of plys, width, etc.

Who other than B****wood makes a 3/8" prefinished hardwood...or even 7/16" or 1/2" that has at least a 4-star rating? Would prefer domestic hardwoods over exotic. Will do an engineered but want one with a good wear layer and good milling with a 25yr warranty.

Why not consider Owens PlankFloor and have it site finished? It will cost more but you will have a stable floor with a thick wear layer.

Gary...that's not within the budget. I'll spend the extra $ to put down an MVP for added insurance. My installer just told me he has a 7/16" solid from Armstrong he wants me to look at. Anyone have any experience with this product?

Cappy, what you are describing is not just the wood. Something made one floor cup and the next one did not adhere to the terrazzo. What preparation was done to the terrazzo to receive the adhesive? I don't know alot about glue downs but I thought the readings had to be under 3#'s to glue unless you use MVP or the Stauf 960 polymer.

The terrazzo had carpet on it for over 40 years with the most recent carpet being about 6 years old. A professional sander was used with #12 grit sandpaper to "rough" it up. Then we did the calcium chloride test which was 3.17#. Our first installer didn't want to use urethane obviously because he didn't have experience using it and was afraid to get it on the finish. The first install was 60sf of wood--water based glue, cupped immediately. That was removed with no problems...came right up. Then a contributor on this site recommended we use Stauf 930. That was about 130sf that cupped immediately. Stauf told us it was solvent based and not the correct product. The wood stuck something fierce but was a bear to remove. We were reimbursed completely by Stauf. Then Stauf recommended we use the 940 and assured us it would work. It did not. They are again assuming all the costs.

We had no cupping but squecks in places where the glue did not adhere. We have 2 small hallways (6x4) that stuck and have no squecking. We will now be removing 450sf. I believe if we had used Bostik's Best or another urethane we would not have had any problems.

Needless to say I'm cautious to do this again. We're now looking at a 7/16" Bruce product. I'm just trying to find out what if anything we need to do to prevent this again.

Geez...I don't know what I was thinking--I just realized I said the wrong Stauf glue! We didn't use 940--we used the 960!!

I have very little experience with slabs and glue-downs, but I have a theory on whats happening here. Moisture from underneath will cup a floor. Bostik's urethanes and the Stauf 96 polymer contain no moisture, so the term "moisture cure" can be misleading. But I think you know the difference.

What could be happening is the whole time the slab/terrazzo was carpeted it was able to breath or dissipate water vapor. Now that the slab is covered with the glue and solid hardwood, it can't dissipate anymore and it just builds up moisture making the wood cup. Just my thoughts.

Do you trust your installer? When i install any wood floor I stick it with a moisture meter. If I ever had one cup I would be sticking it again for sure. Has anyone ever checked the before and after MC on your job?

Considering where you live it's doubtful but I will ask anyway. Do you have vent-free gas logs in your home.

Dewpoint is very different then water vapor emissions.

Well, like I said....I think if a good urethane had been used from the beginning I wouldn't be writing this post.

My installer....yes, I think so but I will definitely be asking him to measure the MC before anything is done.

I'll keep you posted.